I read somewhere that the Hawker battery can't handle too much heat? Has anybody had problems with battery temperatures when road racing or open tracking? Taking another 17 lbs off the front in addition to the glass hood, gutting, etc would be nice.

I have heard mixed reviews.

But I've NEVER heard as many complaints about stock batteries.

I may someday get an Oddeysey. Even if they are more money, they have a warranty. 3 years last I checked.

I would just move it to the back. Sure you add weight in a box/cables, but you remove weight from the nose, and add it to the rear and passenger sides. All pluses.
I may at some point add a light battery to the current rear location.

Sorry I wasn't more help.

My last track event was in the 90's, track temps were over 130 and my oil temps got over 310.

The Hawker worked just fine.

Jon A--

How long have you been running that battery for? How good is it after storage or in the winter? My car is driven very little in between tracke events, and rarely in the winter.

Thanks,
Dennis

If you run the Hawker, put it in the stock location like Jon did. I put mine where the passenger seat used to be, and it was very marginal in being able to start the car. I eventually sold it to someone else who was going to run it in the stock location.

I do also have a master kill switch on the driver's side a-pillar, so the length of cable is longer than if you don't have this, but a stock battery has no problems with this.

Yeah...like Mike, I have seen people with the Hawker have problems when remote mounting it in the trunk and running long lines...I would not use one for that kind of set up....

I've been running it since the date on this pic:



Daily driven. It has worked fine, even in the winter. The longest I've gone without driving the car is a little over a week.

Thanks for the picture! I think I will mount it up front like you did and fab up some type of bracket/mount like you also. One more question...Is yours a real Hawker?--See the link below:

http://www.stealth316.com/2-dynabatt.htm#g16ep

I wouldn't worry about the temps with those batteries. Hell, I've seen LOTs of people have battery issues with too much heat. Its usually when we're coming off the track during the summer, stop do weigh the cars in tech, then try to refire them. There's always a couple of cars that can't start on their own. So, do the Hawker.

Yup, mine's a Hawker. I got it at Battery Mart, IIRC.

I have had mine, for about 3 yrs now . I use it daily. I have in on the floor behind the passenger seat. . it did get low once when I had the car apart for a month . it turned over slowly and has been fine ever since. I run a short 12" ground to the old rear seat bracket, and the positive thru the firewall and connected to the stock wire up front. I used 1 OT for everything. except for the one time its been a great battery.

I am going to be needing a new battery. I have no problem with putting it in the stock location and I'm all for less weight. I've never heard of the Hawker batteries. Which one do i need("96 LT1,383) and where do i get it?
Thanks
Steve

Steve, go to Dennis' link a few posts above. That's the battery you need - Hawker G16EP. I got mine from Portable Power Systems, as advertised on that page. Very good customer service.

JonA, where do I get a bracket like that? Is this one of your custom fab jobs or something I could pick up somewhere?
thanks

Some aluminum angle and a chopsaw....

Aluminum angle, chopsaw, grinder, and file have been one of my best friends over the last year or so.

I was looking at the battery tender website to see which one is compatable with these Hawker batteries like the stealth site says. That's when I stumbled across this

http://batterytender.com/notice_odyssey.php

It looks like most of you using this battery are fairly happy with it, but battery tender's thoughts wave a flag!!

Thanks for the info! I've had my hawker in since about February, driven a few hundred street miles, and have 3 track days with zero problems so far. I've yet had the need to put a charger on it.

Earlier Hawker (in the 90'S) batteries with AGM recombient technology had a slight problem with thermal overload, but that has been addressed in the later designs.

I had to charge mine after a bonehead move before I took the dome light out (doors open all night in the garage...).

Anyway, I hooked it up to our old Sears trickle charger and it came right up. It holds a charge for a long time too. Granted, I don't have anything drawing while it's parked (no radio, etc) but i went out 2 months after I installed the battery and the car popped right over.

I'm happy so far.

I bought a used one from some other forum, and it never worked right. Didn't hold a charge, got hot, car never started from it. So I payed my money, spents lots of time making brackets for it (as well as my catch can, which I had to relocate a bit), and...i'm back to stock :/

Is that just a bad battery, or are they generally bad? My mechanic has it on his race car and says he's always got problems with it, that if he doesn't drive the car for more than 2 days he'll have to fire it up from a charger, as the battery would be weak already. How would I check how bad the battery is? Where do I get a new one at a good price?

I bought an equivalent. The Harley battery. Been in the car, and I only start it once a week.

good old thread. i have hawker genesis in stock location.
i let it sit for months over the winter and it always started up.

funny thing is that even after starting it with it not being started for 30 minutes, the gauges do the full sweep thingy and the odometer resets to zero. does that happen to anyone else?

My Hawker/odessey battery has lasted 2 years now.

After researching various batteries for winch duty in my Jeep, despite the claims by Hawker, I decided they wouldn't work. They may start okay, but they have poor reserve capacity. IOTW they will die quickly if they have very much load placed on them without charging. The above quote tells you that the Hawker is going below the minimum voltage necessary for the odo memory. I have experimented with this and it seems like the trip odometer is the first to go on low voltage. The ECM and radio presets will usually stay until you drop below 8 volts or so. IMHO the Hawker is an decent idea that has not been fully developed yet.

I kinda bought the Hawker knowing it may die down over time, but since I have no radio and such it doesn't really matter to me. Just that it starts! Everything's a comprimise. Light battery, less capacity.

Agreed. I wouldn't use it in a daily driver, but for an occasional street car or a race car, I think it's a great option.

Actually, the 99 cars suffer from some glitch that causes the 'full sweepy thingy' mentioned above. I queried the service dept here and was informed that there is a TSB of some kind on it, and that in my case (out of warranty, and thinking I had damaged something by welding w/o disconnecting the battery) not much could be done.

Tony
it is amazing just how time consuming contracting and building a house can be. I've resolved not to touch the cars until this is through, although I did sit in it the other day

How is everyone charging these batteries?

I found a place that has the oddyssey ODYSSEY PC680 for $81 shipped. They also had good prices on the battery tender line of chargers. I was thinking of getting the Battery Tender Plus and leaving it plugged in most of the time.

20-25 lbs off the nose is really tempting!

Also is anyone buying the metal jacket version of these batteries? It's $7-8 more.

Haven't had to charge mine yet. It has sit for 1-2 months later winter, early spring (Northeast)....starts like a champ!

Damn.

I assume you usually leave it disconnected?

My experiences are the same as Dennis'.

The only time I've had to charge it is when I left the key in the ON position overnight and it drained the battery.

I left the battery in from February to April without touching it and it popped right over when I tried to start the car. I don't have anything drawing on the battery (a stereo, etc) though.

It's never been disconnected since I put it in over the winter. I don't have much drawing on it either (no radio, etc.).

Thanks guys I ended up ordering the odyssey off ebay for $72 shipped.

I also have no radio/speakers either.

Mine's held up well too. I ended up getting one with a metal jacket because it was cheaper than the no-jacket ones I found elsewhere. Then I took the jacket off then it got here.

It was stuck on with some hot glue on the sides. (the front and back "sides" - the wider parts)

FWIW, Lonnie told got a rebadged Hawker locally at a Harley dealership for the same price I paid ($72). I should've read his price more carefully-I could've saved some time.

I finally got my Odyssey battery in and it takes longer to start than I would like. It's only been in for the day with 4 starts under it's belt. 2 of the starts were just to see if it would start with no running time to let it charge any.

The motor has a history of not wanting to start when hot, but that was solved with a high torque starter. Also, since this is a thirdgen Formula the battery is on the driver's side making the cable fairly long. I run the positive cable across the radiator to a remote solenoid mounted on the frame next to the idler arm, from there I have a cable that runs back to the starter. I know long cables are frowned on, but don't think this case is too bad.

Any suggestions?

Mine cranks for a little bit too, but nothing crazy. 2-3 seconds max.

I still have the standard long cable as well, so you're probably one up on me as far as that goes.

Just a word of warning though, I actually killed the battery completely about a month ago because I left the key on for a few days and it drained the battery so bad it wouldn't take a charge. Luckily, I bought mine locally and the store honored the 1-year warrenty.

One other suggestion, if you used the bolts that came with the battery, find some way to make a remote positive terminal like newer OEM cars because it's a pain in the ass to get cables on those small bolts if you do kill it. I still haven't made it to the junkyard to pull one, but it's on my to-do list.

Yeah, I forgot to ask about how you guys plan on jump starting the car if you use the bolts included with the battery. I see Jon still has what looks like the factory bolts, wonder how he did it. Either way it looks like you'll short out the jumper cable since it's so close to the body. I can just tap off of the remote solenoid for that... actually if I moved the solenoid someplace reachable I wouldn't need it.

I'll have to feel it out a little longer to see if it will stay or not, also it has a 2 year warantee.

I drilled and tapped the battery to use the stock sized bolts. I felt dumb for doing that when you guys mentioned you could just use the bolts the battery came with. But ahah! I knew there was a reason.

HAHAHAH... I was wondering if that's what you did, or tap the bolts to match the battery. Once I got the bolts out I thought about getting longer screws and drilling out the factory bolts, too much work.

I just bought the adapter after I decided I didn't like reusing the bolts it came with.

I bought the SAE adapters too but I couldn't figure out what size the thread inside were so they got chucked into the corner of the garage out of frustration.

It comes with alllen head bolts to bolt onto the battery and your standard side terminal bolt (factory) screws right into it.

I tapped the battery like Jon and then I think I used the factory bolts or some standard ones that fit in.

Hmm, I'll have to check that out. The holes in my adapters were way too big for the factory terminal bolt. It seemed like 3/8 to me. I'll see if I can snag some pics to compare one of these days.

I think my battery is completely dead now, it wont even turn on the check engine light. It sat from December to today. I'm not sure if I want to get a charger for it or not, most of the chargers they recomend cost more than the battery! I'll have to see what they say about a warantee claim. I found these two charger but don't think the cheaper one will work, the last link tells you how to charge them.

http://www.batterymart.com/p-ACC-12V7A-S.html
http://www.batterymart.com/battery.mv?p=ACC-1206WB

http://www.odysseyfactory.com/odycharg_c.htm

Anyone have other options?

Start the car off one battery then swap the Hawker back in with the car running so the alt can recharge it?

Not sure if it'll work, but I'd try it.

Hopefully, I have better luck with mine. Mine sat disconnected for 3 months last spring and was fine but it'll be closer to 5 months this time.

Yeah, or jump start the car and let the alternator charge it. You might even be able to put somewhat of a charge on it just by hooking it up standalone to another running car with jumper cables, and let that car charge on it for a while.

I have an ancient hand-me-down charger from my stepdad. It's rusty and looks rough, but still charges just fine... I've thought about hitting the case with a coat of POR-15 next time I have some out.

I was kind of wondering if there was anything special about charging up the Hawker. I've had mine on a 12V 4A charger for an hour or two here and there the last few weeks in between starting it or flashing the PCM. It seems to be working fine, and the battery sat (disconnected) from October to February. It struggled to start one morning last week after sitting on the trailer in 17F weather overnight, but did start after stalling about 3 times.