That was done with a hack saw, sand paper and about an hour of time.

Aluminum is soft, there needs to be a rubber seperator wherever it touch's metal. Cheap thin rubber floormat works well.

I have a big Griffin in my LT1 car, made to fit with a/c condenser, you check with them?

I didn't call them before, but I did lookup the part number and listed it in post #33. I just spoke with Benji and he said their HP ratings are to the wheels, and they are custom built, so 1-2 week lead time. So similar lead time to Ron Davis, but less money ($625 vs. $770). He didn't have specifics on what is modified to make it work.

I spoke with Bobby @ LGM and he said you just disconnect the bottom AN line on the block adapter to drain the oil from the cooler. He didn't make any mention of needing to seal the corners/ends.

Found some other photos of the Super Cool radiator. I wonder why this doesn't show the side brackets / modified upper radiator mount?
http://xse.com/leres/ss/radiator.html

Ya, with -AN lines it's easy to pop a couple of them off to fully drain the system. But, consider not draining the cooler and just letting some old oil mix with new. Or, pull the plugs and crank unloaded till you see oil pressure. Or, install an Accusump to precharge the system. Or, figure out a way to gravity fill the cooler from the top. The goal is to not run the motor at zero oil pressure while the cooler and lines are filling.

Seal all gaps around the radiator - the goal is to not allow any air to pass from the front of the car into the engine bay without doing some work along the way - either aero or cooling or both.

The rework of the radiator top cap is shown on that link, he did it differently than Mitch did. That's a pretty good link, except that 250 oil temp is not a problem, it's just fine with a quality synthetic. All the work he did on the external oil cooler was a step backward, IMO.

Hey ... I wuz just a rookie back then ...

I spoke with Bobby @ LGM because Anthony was tuning a car. His opinion was to stick with the 160* thermostat in hot climates

Still haven't bought the new radiator, but the water level hasn't dropped since I topped it off at the dealer that day. RD never called me back to give me the shop number of the place in Virginia which installed it recently. I wanted to get the information direct from the installers mouth on ease of installation. Not sure if LG offers a warranty on their radiator, but I'm not crazy for RD's warranty length of 90 days.

Found this recent thread dealing with the Mocal block adapter:

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/generation-i...ge-install.html

He couldn't get the 8AN fittings to fit nicely with the block. Could I consider using a different type of fitting/tubing with the Mocal block? Will all of these oil cooler solutions require doing more than a normal oil change to change the oil? I don't want to complicate oil changes.