I'm getting ready to do a cam swap in the next month or so and would like to know who the Cleveland/Ohio has done this before that wouldn't mind helping or sharing some insights.

I've look over the Install University Article on this, and it doesn't sound too bad. But if history is a guide usually their time estimation for completion are way off. Usually because the is some stubborn bolt or bracket that they fail to account time for.

I think I got everything I need here is the list so far:

• TSP 231/237 598/595 LSA114 Camshaft
• Rollmaster Double 7 way Key adjustable Timing Chain
• Trick Flow 7.4" 5/16 Chromemolly Pushrods
• Patriot Performance Dual Springs and Ti Retainers
• TSP Ported Oil pump
• Valve Cover Gasket
• Timing Cover Gasket
• ASP Underdrive pulley (Alternator Pulley and Belts)
• Balancer Bolt
• 6 quarts of Oil

Am I missing anything? How much time can time can I expect it to take (not rushing through it of course) Also what additional tools I will need to get?
Balancer puller, Spring compressor, 16 pen magnets, Socket sets and wrenches. Anything else missing?

Thanks,
Alexander

I'm looking into doing this sometime mid next month, God willing, so I still got time to get any mising parts.

That is the hardest part.

Make for DAMN sure you get the P/U tube O-Ring out of the old oil pump (or just get a new one) and onto the P/U tube before you reinstall.

Lots of folks have to go back into their motor and redo this when their oil pressure is scarey low and they see the O-Ring sitting in the old oil pump on the workbench.

Of 1/2 dozen or so I've done, I've never had a problem with the plastic keepers holding the lifters up enough to get the cam shaft out and the new one in. However, I did have the new one lubed and ready to go so that when the old one came out, the new one went in immediately.

Use the water pump bolts screwed into the end of the camshaft as a handle.

Having a very thin (either 13mm or 15mm wrench) for removing the power steering pump helps a lot (if you aren't going the route of pulling the pulley first).

Also, don't forget to refer to LS1howto.com as well. If you do go the pen magnet route, make sure you check that all the magnets are securely seated in the pen. I did this a few years ago, and one magnet never made the "click" when I put it in. I spent hours trying to decide if the magnet was loose and fell in the motor or, if it was missing from the start. In the end I couldn't find the magnet and assumed it was missing from the start, and the motor did run fine with no problems for 3 years at the track.