Does anyone know of a do-it-yourself tint that works on polycarbonate/plexiglass more to the point percys speedglass rear windscreen 94 z28.

I was all set had some rolls of 35% in hand and started reading the back and it said not to use on plexiglass anyone know why? Guys at store are no help at all.

Anyone have a reason I should not do it anyways A part of me wants to. The windows are done I just need to blackout front and tint and blackout rear. It would look terrible not being tinted.

Tony

Tony you are tinting the window's on the race car?

I would love to think im never going to be passed, but it happen's.So i would want them to be able to see my hand signal's through the window's.

My .01

I'm going to black mine out in the stock spots, and maybe a bit lower in the front since I don't have visors, but I wouldn't tint them. My club doesn't allow it at all because you need to see through to the other drivers/hand signals, etc., just like #07 said.

...to blacken the "stock areas" of the plexiglass, I went to a hobby store, bought some black model paint in a little can....masked off the inside of the window, and sprayed it black....looks like stock!

Yeah, lexan is what R/C car bodies are made out of. So I guess you can use the same paint!

John I had that in mind I was getting the light one just slightly tinted but thanks. Hmm do you think there is any other problem with doing this.

Thanks for the tip on model paint,makes perfect sense I was worried about the fish eye effect. Was going to sand it a bit first. That paint should not need any prep???

Tony

I don't think they will let you race on track like that.They did let me on track in HPDE 1/2.But they may not in 3/4.

It just seem's like more work/trouble and you might have to take it off

...the RC model paint comes in little cans....I used 2 as I remember.....I DID NOT sand the area at all, and have had no paint failure except where the frame of the window wore through on the window a bit....I have now beat down the lip a bit so this wont happen again...no fisheye....came out smooth

Now to really get it to stick good you need to leave the covering over it to protect what you don't want to spray. Mask the rest of it off..then remove the protective covering where you want to spray. Rough up the surface to get it to stick, then wipe it down with some cleaner like alcohol then spray it like you would anything else....remember spay from the back side, like a R/C body.

Works wonderful...lasts long time.

Alright John now you are starting to discourage me! Quit it already My intention was to only LIGHT tint the rear windscreen its blindingly clear . Light enough tint you and others CAN see thru. I am concerned when it comes to safety. So I'm thinking about it alright. Nothing in the rules or CCR about it... not saying your reasoning is not bonafide.
My last car I was using OT had dark tint rear...thats when you point over roof for rightside. Sightly pointing out driver window for leftside pass.

The stock rear glass I removed from the 94 dark tint jeez I'M screwed either way. Guess I better leave the rear clear in the spirit of safety I didnt think it was a bad idea being LIGHT and only rear. Mainly was a appearance mod anyways "just looks better" and the fact that we get some blazing sun summers here too wanted that extra little bit of buffer.

I still cant find any tint specifically for polycarbonate plexiglass. And the warnings on the back of the box of conventional tint well... But hey I cant be to discouraged. I have the windscreens done either way, well ok I got to paint the edges! And put them back on (:7 month sigh:)

I got some Krylon Fusion for plastic to try on one of the scrap trim pieces. See how it works.

Tony

Sorry Tony

There is allways the clear tint too, just to cut down on the UV.I don't see why tint won't stick to plastic, take some of those scrap's and do it up and let it sit for a few weeks.

Hey take that back there's no apology needed. Did I come off insulted. Hope not I used the you made good sense. Thats what this place is for IMO. For the opinions!

Anyways the tint is on hold,just don't want to risk clouding the plexiglass or something. I surely cant see the tint not being able to affix itself to the surface. Glass is just as slick. Its got to be a reaction the glue has. Or just put the warning on the back to cover their butt it in case it turns out bad since they made it for glass. whatever

The Krylon Fusion works great, and the windscreens look better now

I blacked out 7" top of front windscreen hope its enough for some visor effect when needed. If not easy to fix.

Tony

let me know how the Krylon Fusion holds up...much easier than finding a RC shop...