The caulking or whatever spread on the seams in the interior. Is it holding the panels together? Whats the purpose? Can/should it be removed? tia


Tony

burned it out with a torch....get rid of it....it is NOT glue....

It's seam sealer, body schultz,,, whatever you want to call it. They apply it to the body seams to keep sound/vibration down. I have not tired it {yet} but I've heard that you can freeze it with dry ice and it will chip off rather easily,,,, dunno but it might be worth a try.

Once you remove it, do you have to weld the seems back together?

no.....it serves NO STRUCTURAL purpose.....

the interior in a gutted painted car like mine looks SO MUCH BETTER also....

Greeeeaaat. Just added one more thing to the "to do" list.

Any links to the "dry ice" method? Not to fond of fire.

Never tried the dry ice method....I have heard it works good also....

My concerns with the method.....1) where do you get dry ice? 2) seems like you will need a lot??? 3) how do you hold it on the vertical surfaces long enough to make it work?

In my Datsun I did the OLD FASHIONED method.....hand scraper and a rotory sander.....bad, but they didn't goop the cars up as bad back then....

In the Camaro I just used a cheap ol propane cylinder from the hardware store for home plumbing....it smelled to high heaven...do outside if you can....and made a sooty mess, but worked great....gotta feel comfortable letting your car burn while you watch it though...

Fire Bad

i used a puddy knife and a hammer and cut most of it out. then went back w/ a wire wheel in a die grinder to brush out the residue. makes a very big mess.

Thanks for the help guys

This is how we did it (like Glen). Seemed the best option right now.Fire well...bad but the mess is bad toothe way it got done cleanup tomorrow evening that was screwed. Luckily the stuff is somwhat soft,not to bad to work with.

The cutting w/ a razor knife can take some big chunks quick. I finished with the 4.5" angle grinder w/ one of the overlapping flaps of sand paper disk.
Some of the lows and holes I am leaving the sealer/filler in,but very little is left.Mainly what is left after the sanding is done flat.The deep recesses. Will help the overall appearance of the paint I'm presuming.

Did you guys paint interior before the cage was in? I was just planning on "just prepped for". And when it got back paint the bars of cage first w/ light masking of immediate cabin walls near by,all windows, paint them. Then mask bars good after totally dry and shoot the walls with the different color.

Tony

well.....believe it or not fire was easier....I did it the other way in the past....it is just messy....but you gotta clean up after anyway.....

I tried to paint in areas behind where the roll cage was going to before it was installed to try and "be smart"...don't bother....the welding burned and the sparks scarred the paint...had to be redone anyway....waste of time

Around here you can buy dry ice at the local Krogers grocery store,, fairly cheap if I remember right. I've bought it a few times for coolers {no water to get everywhere}. I would think that you could hold it with with a ovenmit or gloves.

More than likely, a feller would end up having to use several methods to remove the stuff. Dry ice and a good "whacking" to remove lage chunks, a putty knife on some of it and maybe a grinder with a wire cup to get rid of the stubborn stuff.

I've used the propane torch on a drag car but I wouldn't want to use it on my Firebird as it's still somewhat of a street car. I'm hopeing to do a cage this winter, I'll try the dry ice when I remove the interior in preparation for the cage. Maybe then if I'll know if it actually works or not.

Thanks Randy So I figured correct thats good. I did think of the 'paint where bars are going to be" also.Wont think about it anymore

Tony