Do I need both? I bought the UMI frame connectors and then came across a good deal on a Wolf 4 point and belts. It's a bolt in bar.


I wouldn't think I need both, but as always my ears are open. Weight is my enemy.

A bolt-in roll bar isn't going to attach to any real structural member.
And it's a lot of weight for a shoulder harness attachment point.

Can't go wrong with UMI.

Mitch, I really appreciate your steering me in the right direction. And don't stop giving me direction.

The bar I bought is on here in the for sale section, a Wolf made from 1.750 dom. I have always had a fear of a roll over. I have a bar in my drag car also. These cars don't have much roof structure and mine has t tops.

Besides its a good mount for a camera and a 5 point harness. Oh Yeh if the car ever gets on its lid it will come in handy.

Maybe...but you should see these pics first.

http://forums.focaljet.com/team-pit-stop/6...-cage-fail.html

(notice the bars sticking straight through the floor?)

More here:

http://www.accordinglydone.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17928

I'm not suggesting that these cars are Mustangs, etc. Just that you should evaluate anything you trust for safety and it's not a bad idea to err to the conservative side when in doubt.

I read that the Mustang bar was put it without the sandwich plates on the underside of the car. That it wad a SEMA. Deal that ended up on track.

In most cars, the bolt in 4pt bars are supported only by thin sheet metal in the rear seat footwell, and the rear wheelhouse. The 4th gen Fbody, tho, has a thick steel stamping that forms the rear LCA frame mount, and the Autopower 4pt main hoop is anchored on that thick steel. I don't know about the Wolfe, but their drag 4pt has a bend or 2 in the backstays, which is weaker than a straight tube. Neither Autopower or Wolfe have the backstays land in a good place.

A 4pt that is bolted to the thick LCA mount is a reasonable addition for a street/track car, and will anchor harnesses and seat. Needs high density padding, and may need some customization for correct harness angles. Rear seat should be removed, or otherwise disabled - people should never ride back there with the steel.

A bolt in should not be welded in - there will be no improvement in strength, the welding will likely weaken the OEM sheet metal.

If that is true, I doubt that it would have made any difference if the backing plates were correctly installed - that area in a Mustang (and an STi, and an EVO, etc) is .030" thick sheet metal. The main hoop feet sliced thru it like a cookie cutter. Backing plates would have just been along for the ride.

We cut the roof off of Glenn's race car to remove the cage and I was amazed at the web of heavy gauge sheets in the C pillar.

Now, it doesn't have any cross bracing. But I bet a well placed horizontal member going from striker to striker and cross brace would give much more rigidity and roll over protection than a bolt-in 4-point.