Moroso 3 quart accumulator. I bought it new a few years back and never used it (I went dry sump). I'm not even sure if it has been out of the plastic bag.

http://www.moroso.com/catalog/categorydisp...p?catcode=13600

The middle picture. Has the valve on one end, the gauge on the other.

Also the correct mounting brackets, pn 23920 (same link, just scroll down).

INCLUDES PIMPY BLUE ANODIZING OF THE BRACKETS AT ABSOLUTELY NO ADDITIONAL COST TO YOU!!!

New accumulator (jegs) = 189.99
New brackets (jegs) = 26.99

New total = 216.98
+ shipping
___________________
total (new) = 1 hojillian dollars..

but...

if you ACT NOW...I'm looking for $150 for BOTH parts (plus shipping)...

STOP READING AND START ACTING!!!!





costas (at) witchdoctormotorsports (dot) com


Costas
cars and such...

Sold - pending payment.



Costas
cars and such...

11 minutes .... that has to be close to a record, or something.

Naah, I think Costas bought a 92 1LE car in like six minutes, or so on this list once.

I thought it was six seconds....

Since Costas sold his... I'd just like to let anyone else who was interested know that I have a used Moroso 3qt accumulator and brackets I'd sell for $80 + shipping.

I bought them off tom97ss a few years ago and never used them as I went to a Canton pan on my new motor.

And I'm selling the pressure switch to convert your electric accumulator valve to the 30 psi "Race" version that Canton sells. If you need those parts, let me know.

Nape. I'd probably use both. I'm using a 3 quart Canton version and I can still turn on my 30 (or less) psi oil warning light on street tires. I'm not sure the pan will fix it all on its own either. It might, but it's cheap insurance and you already have it.

got a pan on my CMC car and i regularly see zero on every lap of some races. keep the tank.

I just got a Moroso Accumulator for Xmas. I need a valve for it as it just comes with the standard one. Will the Canton stuff work on a Moroso?

If so, what is the difference between the "race" valve and the regular?

Thanks,

Randy

As I remember, my accumulator is 1/2 NPT on the threads. I think the Moroso is as well.

The "race" valve from Canton will not let the sump fill if oil pressure is under 30psi. It seems to want to direct that oil to the engine. I bought the race version to see if the valve was any different, it's not. So, I installed the electric valve, but didn't use the pressure switch and hardware. I just put a switch on mine that is hot when the key is hot and I have a manual override to shut it off (I've been known to empty the sump into the pan and idle the engine to heat the oil, then open the sump back up, etc).

And I guess I have the 20-25 psi switch.

http://www.accusump.com/acc_products/acc_valves.html

I have what is basically the 24-271k (I think I used some of the wire and the switch). Canton sells the kit for $80.00 to go with your valve. I'd like to see $60-ish shipped (OBO).

Did you get the new improved version of the Moroso Randy? That one looks better than the old one where the end caps can blow off. Alan Blaine had some kind of fix for that, can't remember what it was. None the less, if running the old version of the Moroso you should put a shield over it for sure so it can't spray you directly.... I went with the Canton version for the 4th gen CMC car, does not have that design flaw.

I don't know. It was new in the box from Summit. Have any pics of the old vs. new design?

I guess I am not too clear on how the sumps work. With the manual valve it is either on or off correct? I thought that the electric valve was the same, just opened via a electric switch.

However, now you are bringing pressure switches into it. Does that mean that the sump will not activate UNTIL the pressure is lower than what the switch is set at?

I thought you just revved the engine on shut down to peak oil pressure thereby charging the sump and then shut the valve. Then, on operation, the sump would attempt to maintain that pressure. Do I have it wrong?

Thanks,

Randy

Randy - here's the new "Super Duty" one, PN 23902:



Here's a link to all three:

http://www.moroso.com/catalog/categorydisp...p?catcode=13600

You can see the Super Duty has reinforced end caps. If you do not have this one I'd send it back and get this one, or get a Canton.

You are suggesting exactly what I do (though I don't rev the crap out of it, I may or may not pull the idle up to 2,500 rpm for a few seconds and then shut the valve).

The switch shuts the valve below 25 psi to the engine will get any oil from the pump. However, I feel that this is a stupid idea because you now have a closed sump with 25 psi of oil in it. If the engine has less, then let it stay open. This is why I have the valve as "extra". I didn't use it. I'm also running an M55HV oil pump (standard SBC) and I have enough volume and pressure to fill it and feed the engine as soon as oil becomes available. I think I was seeing 19 psi on the autometer at Nashville when on track (on street tires).

This could work really well with a pair of valves and some check balls. Let it run wide open until empty, but hold the refil until pressure comes up. How many million dollars in plumbing do you think we could tie up in this?

So these valves CLOSE the sump below 25 or 30 lbs. of pressure? That seems odd....seems like it would close your sump when you want it the most....when pressure is REALLY low. Thus your engine won't get a "boost" if anything is left in the sump after that point. Maybe they have determined that after 25 lbs or lower, the sump most likely has shot its wad, and all available oil pressure from the pump should go to the engine and not to recharge the sump.

My understanding is when the engine is running, the sump will automatically recharge and equalize to the "appropriate" pressure, so after the 25 lb. situation went away, the sump would reopen and recharge....that is my supposition though....

Beats me, but if you need one, make me an offer.