Maybe silly question - rebuilding wheel hubs?

I'm kind of expecting the answer to be no, but wanted to make sure, since any searches have turned up zero on the subject. I replaced my first replaceable wheel hub on our '12 Caprice. I wasn't even sure it was the problem, until I replaced it and the horrible grinding noise went away. All our other cars either have tapered wheel bearings, and I'm well-versed on those, or we haven't had problems with the hubs. We didn't track/autocross the Z28 enough to have any problems there.

So, can you/do you rebuild wheel hubs? It seems a shame to just throw out that big chunk of expensive paperweight, but if that's what's done now, so be it. Thanks.

3rd Gen Firebird Lift-off VFN hood

***SOLD!***. Sold to a local guy. Thanks all.

When we put the LS in the Firebird, we had to get a cowl hood. I picked up a VFN 4-1/2" cowl hood and modified it so it would work on our car. We had a body shop mold-in the headlight covers, and we added Dzus fasteners to fit our car. Later, we discovered that Holley made a low-rise LS carb intake and got that so we could replace the VFN hood with a C Prepared-legal hood (2" or less cowl). We have zero use for the VFN hood now, so offering it up for sale. It's in as perfect condition as possible for a fiberglass piece that's seen little use. No cracks or chips that I've noticed. It's painted low gloss black.

I'd like to get $300 for this hood, and pick-up in Pearland, Texas would be preferred. While we have the old box the replacement hood came in, shipping would be a real PITA, not to mention, expensive, these days. Thanks.

(IMG:https://media.fotki.com/2v2ejYCD5xJDYiP.jpg)

(IMG:https://media.fotki.com/2v2ejYC4NxJDYiP.jpg)

(IMG:https://media.fotki.com/2v2ejYCmrxJDYiP.jpg)

(IMG:https://media.fotki.com/2v2ejYCTjxJDYiP.jpg)

(IMG:https://media.fotki.com/2v2ejYCS8xJDYiP.jpg)

Underside of hood showing the patching work done.

(IMG:https://media.fotki.com/2v2ejYCVMxJDYiP.jpg)

Close up of front left corner.

(IMG:https://media.fotki.com/2v228nug4xJDYiP.jpg)

Hood on car while the glass work is being done.

(IMG:https://media.fotki.com/2v228nu4mxJDYiP.jpg)

Come up of same.

Camaro dash pad refurb

Finally getting some time to do a little work on the B4C that's NOT fixing broken stuff. A looooonnnnnnggggg time ago, I picked up a near-perfect dash pad for the car to replace the shattered one that's in it right now. I figured I'd give it a treatment I learned from a friend decades ago when he was protecting the dash pad on his '69 GTO. He slathered the thing in petroleum jelly and wrapped it in Saran Wrap and let it sit for a while. I think he did it for like 2 weeks. It restores some of the flex to the vinyl, and helps it live in southeast Texas sun.

I did that trick on a dash pad on our SVO we're currently restomodding. Those are notorious for cracking, too. Like 3rd Gen Camaro dashes, the aftermarket sux for replacements.

With the Camaro dash pad, it's sat on the back of the B4C for about 5 YEARS. Now starting to clean it off. The petroleum jelly is taking off years of dust and dirt, maybe a little cigarette smoke from POs, and the pad is looking good. Here's a couple of pictures of the pad now. Updates as they occur.

(IMG:https://media.fotki.com/2v2erz3NWxJDYiP.jpg)

(IMG:https://media.fotki.com/2v2erz3rGxJDYiP.jpg)

HVAC Blower Question

I took the blower out of our 92 to replace it, and it appears that the blower cage is pressed on. I can see little, rusty, splines on the shaft, and no nut, nor threads for a nut. The replacement motor has a nut on the end to hold the cage on. I've hit the stud with PB Blaster and after sitting a while, tapped on it with a small hammer. No budge.

Is it really pressed on, and, if so, what's the trick for getting it off? Thanks.

Cheap Chinese cr@P!

:set rant=ON

While chasing a rattle in the back of the B4C, I noticed that the rear bump stops had deteriorated. Much like the spats on our 86 SVO, they just fell to the floor of the shop in crumbly pieces. Looking around, I discovered that the poly replacement pieces require you to cut part of the mounting surface away from the body. Not willing to do that, this IS a mostly-stock B4C 1LE car, I opted to just use factory replacements.

It looks like Dorman is the only co that has anything that's not poly for the 3rd Gen, P/N 31068, so I ordered a pair of these, not cheap, repros. I decided today was the day to do that, and after getting the back end off the ground and the wheels off, went to work. Being a mostly unmolested Texas car, the bolts came off will little effort, albeit more than I wanted to do, given my current state of rehab from shoulder surgery. Anyway, I started to bolt the new ones in place, and the freaking bolt holes don't line up with the body!!!!! I verified the P/N, but sure enough, the bolt holes are about 1/8-3/16" off. After drilling the holes out to 1/2" and slotting them with my die grinder, I got them on the car.

I'm really p1ssed that these things pass off as OEM replacements. It's not like I'm trying to fab a part for some rare, odd car. I can't wait to get my 'we'd love you to review your purchase' email from the reseller!!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

The rattle, BTW, was a mis-assembled rear sway bar end link. I don't remember when, or who did the work, it was certainly me, with, or without help. Who knows. It's all better now. THAT sh1t fit!

:set rant=OFF
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