Koni struts/shocks, front suspension parts

I'm just now unpacking the garage after moving and I'd rather sell this stuff than tossing it up into the attic forever. As much as I'd like to buy another thirdgen for a daily driver or do a lemons build I don't see me using these parts anytime soon.

$250+shipping SOLD
Front koni struts I was told they were valved for super stock back in the day and are degassed for a lower ride height. I had them close to maxed out with ~1300lb/in front springs, but they were working fine when removed. The rears are a set of thunderbird (solid axle) double tube koni's but match up about perfectly in terms of length. The adjusters are stuck at full soft I think. I may try hitting them with an impact and see if they loosen up. I never ran the rears, but kept them around for spares. If I can find all the parts I'll throw in my old spherical strut mounts too.

$40+shipping SOLD
-I have trackbird's old steering gear parts that were close to new. They maybe have another 60 autox runs on them. Center link, idler arm, inner/outer tie rods with hex adjusters. I'll double check, but last time I checked the idler it was still tight.

$20+shipping
12:1 box rebuilt from o'reillys and adjusted on the bench before installation

$40+shipping SOLD
Spindles have the dust cover holes drill and tapped, stock hubs with the rotors cut off, and I'll turn what's left of the rotors down to hubs.

$10+shipping
Performance Friction Front brake pads for 98+ f-body.

Free+shipping
GONE-Front LCA's with poly bushings installed and +1/2 LBJ's. LBJ's are toast with a lot of vertical movement.
GONE-Stock WS6 springs cut down alot, probably not useful for anyone that hasn't done a ton of weight loss
GONE-1100lb springs cut down to approximately 1300lb/in same as above, probably not useful for someone that hasn't done a ton of weight loss.
GONE-My old steering gear parts that I removed to put in trackbirds. Idler was a little loose, but everything else was fine.
-3.27 9 bolt ring and pinion
-Original 12:1 steering box from my car. I must have left out a ball bearing or something on the third time I had it apart. There's a ton of slop.
GONE-Monroe struts with under 20k on them.

16x9 FM5's in PA

Unaffiliated, I just saw these and thought it was a smoking deal for track wheels. Street tire selection is terrible for 16's now, but hoosier will be making slicks for a long time.

http://www.roadraceautox.com/showthread.ph...16-s-GM-fitment

18x12 Fikse Mag

I bought these parts to make a second set of wheels for my Trans Am, but I need to finish up the rebuild on my motor so these are a lower priority.
The specs are:
18x12 et19 4.5" lips
18x12 et35 (after 9mm spacer) 3.5" lips
The centers are polished, I was going to plasti dip the centers for contrast, I've done one so you can see what it looks like:

(IMG:http://i405.photobucket.com/albums/pp135/roostmeyer/parts%20for%20sale/th_20141125_073520.jpg)
(IMG:http://i405.photobucket.com/albums/pp135/roostmeyer/parts%20for%20sale/th_20141125_073606.jpg)

$1600 OBO

You may need a spacer up front depending on your brake package. I ended up having to cut the fender/gfx at the front and back of the fender. I ended up pushing the fender out on the mounts as far as I could, and did a limited pull on the front fenders. With 3 or degrees of camber it should clear. Not a street friendly setup, but for racing it works. Last year I had no issues with 315's on 11.5's. I think the 18x12's will clear fine up front especially once I add the camber.

In back, yeah minitub for best results:
http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/index.php?s=&...st&p=173436

I wanted them tucked in to limit track width and in CP I can legally minitub up to the frame well... and it looks better.

17" CCW Classics

I've got a set of 17" CCW's I just got done sanding out all the scratches and buffing out to mirror finish. This is how they're currently configured:
17x10.5 ET38.1 2.5" lips
17x9.5 ET38.1 1.5" lips, plenty of BBK clearance with the thick pad centers
$1550 OBO

For fitment look here:
http://ls1tech.com/forums/wheels-tires/105...6mm-offset.html
The fronts should be 1/2" further out, closer to flush. The rears would be just slightly more tucked with a 315mm tire in the back.

I've been playing with the paint color. I'm willing to paint them any color the buyer wants. I've got one of the low offset/thick pad centers painted rustoleum metallic gold.
(IMG:http://i405.photobucket.com/albums/pp135/roostmeyer/parts%20for%20sale/20141121_210605.jpg)

(IMG:http://i405.photobucket.com/albums/pp135/roostmeyer/parts%20for%20sale/20141121_210653.jpg)

LS7 Clutch

I'm buying Chucks spec clutch, so I've got a used LS7 clutch and Ram Aluminum flywheel with ARP pressure plate bolts to get rid of. Total mileage should be well under 10k on an LS6 with a mild cam.

$300-SOLD

I'll get some more photos of the clutch disc and PP tonight and a measurement of the disc thickness.

(IMG:http://i405.photobucket.com/albums/pp135/roostmeyer/parts%20for%20sale/th_20140905_112213.jpg)