SLP Dual/Dual Used - Price Drop

Took the SLP Dual/Dual off the car and am going a different direction with the new setup, so this one is for sale. Its in good shape, the muffler case has a dent (road debris), could use a good polish. What you see is what's included. I don't have the over the axle pipe or intermediate pipe. I took half an hour and cleaned it up abit, but with more time I'm sure the tips could be make to look pretty good. The dent is on the bottom side closest to the rear foot pan areas. Once installed you would have crawl up under the car to see it. The inlet pipe might need to be cleaned up, but its not totally butchered or anything and will accept a new over the axle pipe without too much difficulty.

I have pics, if you shoot me a PM with your email I'll send as many as you'd like.

$100 or B/O for what is probably a top two or three sounding exhaust for these cars. I never had any problems with noise at an autox even with this system in place behind a motor putting 420 to the wheels with headers and ORY. I am not really wanting to box and ship this thing because I think shipping would be deal killer for all involved, but we'll see. I am in Trenton, NJ.



Chris

4th Gen Suspension and other stuff

Strano Offset upper control arm bushings NEW never installed, included is a set of factory upper control arms with tight ball joints and no serious rust or rot. Also included a set of the metal shells that will need to be pressed into the arms before installing the offset bushings. Original instructions included $200 shipped.SOLD

Factory lower control arms with Global West Spherical Bearing Kit installed. Finished arms never put on car. Ball joint is tight. $300 shipped.SOLD

Koni top hats to convert 4th gen front shock from stud style to rod end. Brand New from Koni. $80 Shipped

Oil Cooler adapter for LS1. Bolts to side of the pan. Unsure of brand, might be an older LPE unit (don't hold me to that). This is not a thermostatic unit, simply a adapter to allow -8 lines to be run out to the cooler. Has provisions for oil temp probe and/or pressure sensor. $50 shipped.

Hawker lightweight battery mount. Allow the use of a lightweight Hawker/Genesis type battery in the factory mount. Made of aluminum $40 Shipped.

Spohn Solid Motor Stands (Black) $100 shipped SOLD

Improved Racing Oil Pan Baffle (1st Design, no swinging trap doors). $125 shipped.

I have pics of all this stuff, but couldn't get them to load for some reason.

Chris

MSNE Event #1 (AM Session) 4/11/2010

The paving is new, the lot is large by huge. Definitely a great venue.

Here's a link to the only video from my car that worked today. My new GoPro camera worked great, when I pushed the buttons properly.

Anyway here's a look at the course, but more importantly the lot.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uwdfIwDh0Ck

Chris

Collector Car/Limited Use Insurance?

I have initiated the process with the NJ Motor Vehicle Commision to apply for Collector Status for my 1999 Firebird. (No laughing...) In NJ there are 2 types of antique/collector status. The first is the Historic or QQ tags. Car must be over 25yrs old, with heavy restrictions on when, where you drive.

The second is Collector tags for which the car must be at least 10yrs old but not greater than 25yrs old and you are limited to 3,000 miles annually, but you can drive anywhere, anytime. You then get to skip going through State Inspection (still responsible for self-inspection), but have to provide a letter from a car club or the vehicle manufacturer stating the vehicle has some element of collectibility (is that even a word?) or low production totals. So I call Pontiac and ask them to put together a letter with production numbers based on my VIN. Surprisingly, I got a nice letter from them (after a couple of tries) breaking down the #'s for my car based on engine and tranny. Turns out my car is pretty "rare" (not collectible rare, but not many made type rare). So I'm feeling pretty good about satisfying the NJ MVC requirement, but now I have to secure some type of collector insurance and this is where I am worried. I have no problem meeting the annual mileage requirement and can store the car in my garage, so none of that is a problem.

My hang-up is they all seem to mention racing. Now the only "racing" I do is autox events (SCCA mostly). My car is stock appearing from the outside, but I do have a 4pt bolt in bar, primarily to support the Kirkey Intermediate RR seats. How do I best handle this situation? I have no expectations of coverage while participating in an autox event. Anyone have experience dealing with this? I'd prefer to not lie on the application (that's grounds for fraud). Is autox seen as racing? One of the applications I have seen on line doesn't use the word racing, but instead uses "timed event"?

My main motivation for this is to save a few $, get better coverage (with an a stated value) and skip the whole state inspection crap (in NJ what a PITA it is). This year I failed for a gas cap????? I don't drive the car on a daily basis, don't drive it during the winter months (mid Nov to mid March) so it's not a big deal to comply, except the whole "racing" issue and when they ask for pictures and see the roll-bar......

Anyone been through this in NJ or other states?

Thanks
Chris

That's not a front hub......

In getting my 97 3/4 ton Dodge ready for the coming season I thought I'd do front brakes and that turned into more front end work. But I was amazed at the size of the front hub assemblies. And to think this Timken bearing (8800lb suspension, with the big CTD sitting on top of it) with new studs (8 of them) is only $145 (fleabay), compared to the hubs for our cars which are 1/4 the size and contain 1/6 the material and only last for a few months for $100. I think this hub is about the same size and weight as a diff for a stock 10-bolt.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/1qwikbird/3363597393/

Thought it was funny.....