MGW Camaro 5 shifter - $250 BRAND NEW free shipping

SOLD
MGW shifter assembly - never used. Tried to use on my Saturn Sky V8 swap but the trans tunnel was too small so this would not fit, and we immediately removed it - so it has ZERO miles and zero minutes of use, just a tiny bit of grease from initial assembly and removal. So essentially is "BRAND NEW".

$250 shipped to US 48 (ie free shipping), outside of US48 additional shipping added.

https://www.mgwshifters.com/shifters/camaros/82
"OEM style"

PM me, or pavegliochris@gmail.com for fastest reply

I accept Paypal

FS: 2001 Trans Am WS6

NO LONGER FOR SALE (as of July 4, 2022, decided to keep it) but if you are honestly interested, contact me, I may be open to offers in the future.

Photos (127) & video at: http://www.paveglio.com/TAsell/

Contact me at pavegliochris@gmail.com

(IMG:http://www.paveglio.com/TAsell/001.jpg)


This TA is both a looker and a mover. Immaculately kept clean and detailed to showroom quality every fall (garaged over winter) - it looks as good as brand new. But also mild upgrades and modifications to make it handle amazingly well. 353hp and 366lb/ft at the wheels. This car gets heads turned, positive comments from adults, and stares from little kids like they're seeing the Batmobile.

2 Owner car, currently 66,000 miles; Black with charcoal interior, WS-6 Ram Air, 6 speed manual, T-Tops, CD, PW, PS, PB, AC, Traction Control, ABS 4-ch, Leather, Monsoon stereo 10-speaker, 17x9 Firehawk chrome wheels. PA inspection through June 2023.

Documentation of *everything* - every part or modification has photos, receipts are scanned, and a database kept of every service, modification, or repair (during my ownership). Database with 370+ entries; 1200 photos categorized with comments, 300 PDFs of receipts & technical documents. Over 4GB of data. Every physical paper (hundreds), instruction pages, my own notes/diagrams, plus Pontiac flyers and sales books, and full factory service manuals.

[price TBD in the future]

Modified/Additional parts

Suspension:

KONI yellow sport adjustable shocks
Strano 36mm front sway bar
Strano lowering springs
Watts Link, Fays2
Brembo Cadillac ATS (C7 base) 4 piston calipers
12.6 inch front brake rotors
Rocketman adapters with C5 SKF-Xtracker front wheel hubs (will never need replaced/serviced)
Stainless brake lines
Custom brake duct 2.5" adapters
Replaced power steering cooler in radiator hose with external cooler
Turn 1 power steering pump and pulley
Welded/boxed rear LCAs
Strano brake MC brace
UMI strut tower brace
ARP wheel studs
Boxed/welded front sway bar brackets
Spohn subframe connectors, welded

Engine/drivetrain:

Professionally dyno and road tuned by Jeremy at FasterProms - 353hp and 366lb/ft at the wheels
LS6 intake manifold (from factory)
Monster stage 2 dual plate lightweight clutch (LT1-S)
TR6060 RSG "Tranzilla" transmission
Kooks long tube headers (coated) with cats & y-pipe
SLP Loudmouth 2 stainless exhaust
Headman exhaust tips
Texas Speed airlid with K&N filter
MAF de-screened
LS6 valley cover with breather
RXSpeedworks catch can
MightyMouse gen 3 catch can
Lightweight battery
Throttle body coolant bypass
Canton Accusump with electric valve and override switch (always starts with oil pressure)
Eaton Tru-Trac LSD differential
EGR/AIR system removed
Heat blanket on starter and other parts

Electrical/Lighting:

HID Low Beam headlight conversion
PIAA 55w driving lights with LED accents
Side-angle facing fog lights
Side fender marker/turn signal lights
Headlight gears replaced with brass
Woofers replaced (CDT Audio)

Interior:

Sparco Evo race seat on slider with custom seatbelt loop (original seat included)
Extended gas pedal
Tilt steering column pins fixed (no play)

Exterior:

Stone guards on wheel wells
PPF on lower door, rocker panels, and vents, and headlight covers
Regularly waxed, and now ceramic coated
Rear fenders rolled

Included/Additional Parts or Original Parts

Original Pontiac Speedline fat spoke wheels 17x9
Firehawk 17x9 chrome wheels (very rare!) with 275 tires (on car)
Wheel spacers 1/2 inch
Strano 22mm rear sway bar
Front air dam with custom fiberglass air ducts for brakes, 2.5 inch hose
EGR/AIR system hoses and pump
Original fog lights
Spare coolant overflow tank
Spare t-tops (some scratches)
Spare GM rear axles with 4-ch ABS rings
Extra ABS rings
Passenger Sparco seat mounting base
SLP Switch for fan override
Original steering pump
Original springs
LT1 rear spring isolators
Accusump parts
Side vent grilles
Window switch
Fog light switch
TC plate switch
WS6 emblem
Sway bar bushings
Original exhaust tips (singles)
Front wheel well liners
Spare HID bulbs and ballasts
A collection of other spare/replacement/old parts

Documentation:

4+ GB of data: DVD (or thumb drive) of all documentation images (1200)
database file in FileMakerPro (also exported to Excel, CSV formats)
PDF documents of scanned receipts, saved web pages, forum discussions, drawings, etc
All original receipts & paperwork, over 200 pages
Dealer sales brochures & magazines from the time
Factory service manuals including T56 transmission manual (5 books total)
Original owner's manual

Not 100% perfect:

Car was in an accident by the first owner. Minor front right hit and right rear fender. The front bumper cover has a very small rip and some rash at the very bottom edge. You have to be laying on the ground to see it.
The rear fender was re-repainted in 2016 professionally.
The B pillar/sail panel had the "glue spots" issue and was replaced with a reproduction fiberglass piece in 2016.
Because of the Brembo front calipers, the spare tire won't fit on the front wheels, and not recommended on the rear because of the limited slip diff
Small abrasion at gas pedal on the carpet.
The drive side inner door panel has "the crack" (known issue on many f-bodies)
A few scratches on T-Top glass


NOT INCLUDED IN PRICE
18x11 Forgestar F14 wheels with BFG Rival tires, 315/30r18 (about 1/2 tread)
Sparco race seat, brackets, and hardware
We can make a deal if you are interested in these.


About this Trans Am:

Every modification was made with care to make it appear as factory-like as possible. No bright colors used in the engine bay or suspension parts. Any holes were carefully considered before drilling, and the reversal of mods was considered. To a non-expert this car might appear completely stock.

Every year I spent a full 2 days detailing and cleaning the car before winter hibernation. Engine and parts were air-blown, wiped down; wheels cleaned individually off-car; suspension parts wiped/cleaned; underbody wiped down. Interior air blown, vacuumed, wiped, cleaned, leather conditioner applied, vacuumed again. Body washed, all door sills cleaned, body clay bar'd when needed, waxed heavily; and most recently several coats of Optimum Polymer Tech Gloss-Coat and Seal-Coat. Glass cleaned inside and out thoroughly with clean towels. Sometimes Rain-X used.

This car has been only driven on nice days, except for a few times in 19 years - perhaps 10 - when it was unavoidably rained on. It has never been driven in snow in my ownership and not even on roads until any salt has been washed away by rain. From November thru March/April it has stayed inside and only been started up 1x a month to run for at least 20 minutes to -fully- warm up and exercise the engine, trans, AC unit, radio, windows, etc. It almost never has sat outside overnight, always garaged. There is no body or frame rust on this car (the axle has typical surface rust).

Tuned and runs strong to 6000RPM, 353hp and 366lb/ft at the wheels by Jeremy at FasterProms, in person on dyno and on-road. Sounds fantastic at full power, and has gotten multiple compliments on how good it sounds. No drone, can be quiet enough at low RPM or cruising speeds. Sounds fantastic when it rips up to 5500rpm.

Mobil 1 oil always used. About every 2 years oil analysis has been sent to Blackstone - every time it comes back with practically perfect ratings, thanks to the Accusump reducing wear.

This car looks as good as factory new. In the sun its paint is clear and far better than average for swirls or marks for a 20 year old car. All the rubber seals are in good shape. The T-Tops work perfectly, no leaks (although again not driven in rain). You definitely will get random people saying "nice car", and you'll continually look at it for how great it looks in your driveway or at a show, or at a race event. Little kids will see it and stop in their tracks to stare (it's pretty fun). Adults ask what it is and are amazed how great it looks for 20 years. It literally looks factory new from 10 feet away. I know, and you might notice, some minor imperfections, but onlookers will not. I have taken great care to not over-polish the car to keep the clear coat intact. It's only been heavily polished to reduce swirls maybe 2-3 times ever. Regular waxing (overwaxing) kept the dirt at bay, and washing was always done carefully with the newest of microfiber wash mitts. Care taken to dry right away and reduce water spots. To be clear, this car looks extremely good but it is not perfect, there are little stone chips and little scratches.

No description of this car is complete without acknowledging its autocross history. This car has been autocrossed regularly for 17 years of competition, about 10-14 events per year in the local areas. In the right hands, it is very fast. It doesn't have a cam or heads, but has an appropriate amount of power in the stock engine. It has been driven to events, up to 3 hours away. It has hit cones at events. There are some very minor scuffs on the front I can point out, there are more cone scuffs along the doors and door sills, most of which are not very noticeable, and most of the cone material has been cleaned, and now there is clear paint protection film on those areas to reduce cone scuffs on the actual paint. The wheel well areas have some stone pitting.

You might wonder why it doesn't have aftermarket front or rear suspension arms, torque are, K member or things like that. Our local National SCCA autocross champion Sam Strano built his business on suspension tuning F-bodies, and he'll tell you many parts don't matter to make an F-body faster. The right shocks, springs, sway bars, and watts link are all that's needed. New control arms won't make this car faster. You don't need to change parts on this car to make it faster, in fact I'd recommend you leave it just as-is.

The time has come and I'm moving on to another car after almost 20 years. Whether cruising on a summer's day or night, or corner carving, this car will bring you a lot of joy and fun and good times, as it has for me. I realized I might not own this forever, and wanted to always keep it in tip top condition for myself, and with a thought that whoever has it after me would appreciate it kept carefully and considerately. This is a car everyone will respect as a true perfect example of the pinnacle of Pontiac before the end of the 4th gen F-body. I've said this car gives a lot of Smiles per gallon. I will be happy to spend as much time with the new owner as desired to go over every aspect of every part/modification of the car.

You might wonder why it's worth this - this car is so nice you could easily take it to car shows. But it's got enough miles you don't have to be scared to actually drive it and put more miles on it - it's not some ridiculously low mileage museum car. It's meant to make you happy driving it, without having mileage guilt.

Price includes everything listed and some minor items not listed.



Located in State College, Pennsylvania

FS: Motive Gear diff rebuild kit R7.5GRLMKT

For sale: Brand new still sealed in plastic Motive Gear diff rebuild kit, including 4 bearings, shims, pinion seal, etc. With Timken bearings.

I got this and gave it to my shop when I was having a diff problem but it didn't need a rebuild (I honestly forget, this has been sitting in my garage for a while) so I don't "think" they used any items from the kit. It appears to all be there, obviously the plastic is still 100% intact.

$80 with free shipping to US48.

email chris "at" paveglio.com, or send me a PM here, I check a couple times a week.

(IMG:https://www.paveglio.com/postimages/mgr-r7-5grlmkt.jpg)

pic from Summit:
(IMG:https://www.paveglio.com/postimages/mgr-r7-5grlmkt_xl.jpg)

Getting title/registration for my HF trailer in PA

So now that I have my license plate from Maine trailer I can tell you the story about it.

When I found this harbor freight trailer for sale, I knew that I was going to need the certificate of origin and any other paperwork that went along with it, like the proof of purchase, and perhaps documentation of any additional parts that I would attach to the trailer. The guy that I bought it from did have all the documentation and the original instructions and everything that I thought that I needed. I drove to his place picked up the trailer and all the documents and happily drove home.

After I got home I realized that I should probably have an official document of sale so at some point during this process. I typed up a simple sale sheet emailed a PDF to him he signed it and took a picture and sent it back to me. It had the Vin number the date the price and the empty weight of the trailer.

I didn't do anything with it for about two months until the time was right for me to start putting it back together, welding the pieces together, and making plans to put a deck on top of it some additional lights and things like that. I spent a couple hundred dollars on these additional parts and several weekends and a lot of nights to do the extra work. When it was together enough and I knew that it would be good enough to take somewhere to have an inspection done, then I started the process and this is where things get ugly.

I went to the local notary and title place, with all my paperwork, showed it to them and they looked it over for a minute and then brought it back to me showed me the back of the certificate of origin and said that this needed to be notarized. It had been signed by the manager at Harbor freight in Pittsburgh where it was originally purchased, but it wasn't notarized. They told me it needed to be notarized so I went essentially around the corner thankfully to the harbor freight that was in town and talk to the manager there. He wouldn't be able to have it notarized but we thought maybe we could get a new title or certificate of origin for the trailer from corporate headquarters. He took my name and information made a photocopy of the original document and the serial number and said that he would get back to me. I thought that he was immediately going to send out for a new certificate of origin, so I thought maybe in two weeks I'd hear from him and we could get it notarized in his name at the harbor freight.

After about a week I thought I would try to get a second opinion on this, so I went to the local AAA office and talk to them. The woman there told me that I not only need to have this document notarized, but it needed to be signed by the person at the Pittsburgh Harbor freight, the one that sold it to the original guy, and the original guy also needed to be there to sign his name onto the back of the certificate of origin. And then it would have to be inspected with the enhanced inspection because it's a "kit trailer", and then that needed to happen in his name. And then once it was titled in his name, he could "sell it" to me and then we would have to go through a similar process of having a title signed over to me in the presence of a notary at the title office. Because of course the state of Pennsylvania thinks that there's $200 put together trailer somehow qualifies as a "vehicle".

Sadly it seemed to make sense to me and I knew from other people discussing titling trailers in the state of Pennsylvania that this is probably the way it had to be, because it was the hardest option that you could imagine. I contacted the guy that I bought this from and he was rather adamant that none of this needed to happen and all I needed to do was take it to a shop and have it inspected and it didn't need to be notarized or anything like that and then somehow I could magically get the title from the state of Pennsylvania. I was rather dubious about this because it seemed like he was the kind of guy who didn't do all the research before he jumped into anything, hence the reason why he was selling this trailer because he couldn't have a trailer hitch on the back of his car for it, because nobody made a hitch for his car. Like, wouldn't that be the first thing to find out before buying any part of a trailer setup? Nothing against the guy I just didn't really trust his research.

After about two weeks had passed, I finally got a phone call from the guy at the local Harbor freight who I thought was going to get a new certificate of origin ordered, and he said that it might take the central office a really long time to get to it, because they were really busy. And he hadn't even asked to have that started which kind of annoyed me because I thought that's what he was going to do right away. So that seems like two weeks or so wasted waiting for that to happen. I called the Pittsburgh Harbor freight and got in touch with the manager there and I thought that maybe it would be easy enough to have her get the title notarized in her name if I drove all the way over there and made arrangements to have that done at her work. I did as much research as I thought I needed to, and found the local nearest notary that could do this kind of work which was just a couple blocks away from the harbor freight there. So I will talk to her I asked if it would be possible for me to come over and her to go to the notary with me so we could get it notarized she could re-sign it and then have it signed over to me I told her I had all the paperwork. She said that she was not able to leave the building at all when she started her workday. That sounded really odd, like people go out to get lunch all the time. Was it really that busy or chaotic there? 20 mins away was just too much? I said I was very flexible and could make any time happen so if it needed to happen before she went into work someday that could be a possibility. Well apparently that wasn't good enough because then I started to get a rather indignant attitude from her and she stated loudly to me that she had a sick mother that she needed to take care of and couldn't take any time off of work or her personal life or leave the building so she was just going to take my information, the information of the guy who originally bought the trailer, and that she would have to "get back to me sometime". Obviously I was super worried because it seemed like my last ditch effort on this was going to fail now.

I took my paperwork over to one of the guys in the county that does the enhanced inspection, just to find out if he knew anything about this because the first title place told me that they got a lot of trailer titles from him. He was about 1 million years old and super old school, his computer on the desk was from 1989, and there was a pet pigeon flying around in his garage. He looked at all my paperwork thought that it was OK but when I asked him if he thought that this needed to be notarized he said he actually didn't know which was both surprising and shocking because if this guy has done so many trailers shouldn't he know this?? I had a very sinking feeling in my stomach that day because it seemed like I was not going to have a trailer, I was not going to be able to resell this trailer, and I have now spent another $200 on parts for the trailer that maybe I was just never simply going to be able to use and I was just going to have to scrap it, and then go and buy some other pre-fabricated trailer like a $1000 one from tractor supply.

Now a while back some friends have told me that I should just just use Maine trailer registration. So I was actually unsure of what I actually needed to do this, and talking with my one friend in person about this for maybe the third time he said that he never had a title for his trailer all he had was a certificate of sale and that's about all he needed to send to Maine trailer registration. I felt quite uplifted because I had been going under the assumption that I would at least need a title from the state in order to do that, but since nobody really cares about the title if you get pulled over in a traffic stop all they want is the registration and your insurance, that made a lot of sense that the title was somewhat secondary.

So I immediately gave Maine trailer registration a call and talked to them, and then went on their website and fill out all the necessary information that they needed to have, and sent them the PDFs of the documents that I had. I hadn't paid Pennsylvania state sales tax for purchasing the trailer from the guy originally, so that needed to be paid to somebody and I got the email the next day asking if I wanted to pay that which I promptly replied to yes of course, so then it was just a waiting game until I hopefully got the paperwork and the license plate.

It took a total of three weeks for the plate to come to me but it is in my hands now with a registration paper and I am ready to move forward with using this trailer and finishing the construction of it. Unsurprisingly I have not gotten a phone call back from the manager at Harbor freight in Pittsburgh in these three weeks.

Thinking of selling 2001 TA

Thinking of selling soon since prices seem pretty high. I'm putting an LS into my Saturn Sky so it'll probably crush the TA for handling dynamics, comfort, and speed.

Any recommendations for where to list?

Obviously here first, LS1 tech, Facebook groups but probably not general marketplace, and BringATrailer, eBay.

Missing any other good venues or forums?