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Shortcutsleeping
Experienced Member
24 years old
Male
Texas, USA
Born Jan-14-2000
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Your car (Camaro, Firebird, Trans Am, etc): No Information
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Joined: 29-December 03
Profile Views: 58,934*
Last Seen: 18th February 2023 - 04:10 AM
Local Time: Nov 1 2024, 01:21 AM
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8 Jun 2020
Previous owner raced car at COTA, had hub issue after 12 laps and brought it home. Was sitting in his drive and was involved in a rear quarter hit (behind rear tire) pushing it into a vehicle in front of it. Front and rear damage = PARTOUT!!!
I'm keeping trans (93!) and engine/pcm/radiator/abs/k-member all sold. *Bought BRAND NEW BILSTEIN dampers, did 12 laps at COTA. Fronts are coil over with springs. Also have matching springs for rear. Prefer to sell all four together. *Front tubular strut tower brace that also triangulates into the cowl for a 3-point attachment. Lighter than it looks, maybe an Edelbrock piece? *BlaineFab spindle ducts (I think). Was a California car so likely Blaine. Regardless, nice alum vents that are well made. *BlaineFab rear spoiler (I think). Again, looks to be Blaine. Spoiler piece broken but all mounts save one are great and the one looks salvageable. *Edelbrock tubular LT1 shorty headers, ypipe and complete exhaust with dynamax muffler. Was really pretty quiet, like a street car, and a bit rusty. They did it in one piece over the axle so shipping is gonna be tough, but I can section it for you, or just sell the headers/ypipe and muffler or whatever combo. *HUBS - I have three new-in-box C4 hubs that should fit, need to check the two hubs on the spindles. I'll get some pics posted in the next day or so and I've not researched prices but I'm wanting the stuff gone. Costas cars and such...
3 Jun 2020
Hi folks,
I picked up a 4th gen CMC camaro specifically for the transmission. The car was sitting in a driveway and it took a hit on the driver rear corner that folded under the seam behind the driver rear tire and pinned it against the tire/tank while pushing the nose of the car into another parked car. If the CMC car is a clock and the nose is at 12 oclock, then the impact came from about 7-8 oclock and hit aft of the rear tire. The front impact was light, but still crinkled the hood and front fenders. Ug. *PART OUT!!!* (lol) So I'm *THINKING* of cutting the roof off and cutting the cage out by either right where it touches the pads, or even plasma cutting out the pads. Is this even worth the effort? I'm thinking heck, sell it for 500$ (shipping might suck...but it could get strapped to a big pallet). It is NOT some incredible Blaine-Fab cage, but it is a nice basic cage that passes tech. With custom-ish cages costing thousands, this could be an 'easy' button for the right person. Thoughts? Anyone ever do this before? I know rally teams that have done this when they trashed chassis.....but I don't think it is common in the roadrace world. Or is it? Will post up some pics when I get the car out of the trailer. Costas cars and such...
3 Sep 2018
https://collegestation.craigslist.org/pts/d...6688254902.html
I had intended to put this on our WRL/Endurance car but we run headlight covers to reduce drag and this pulls from the headlight pockets. CL add: ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Rare. I believe these were only used on early 80s (1984??) Z28 Camaros. Would likely fit Firebird or other GM cars as well. Used but functional condition. What you see is what you get: 4 pieces: Air filter housing base. Air filter housing lid. Left air scoop. Right air scoop. ***NOTE= THE INSTALLED PICTURE IS TO SHOW HOW IT MOUNTS. I AM NOT INCLUDING THE SOFT HOSES THAT CONNECT THE SCOOPS TO THE FILTER HOUSING*** Email me phone number and I'll text you. Price is firm. This listing says they were from 1983-1987 but please do your own research. https://www.ebay.com/i/173288059057?chn=ps And it is 140$ without the scoops. +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Have it listed for 200 local, for a FRRAX person, I will include shipping, so that is 200 shipped to you. thanks! Costas cars and such...
11 Jul 2016
(IMG:http://www.witchdoctormotorsports.com/GT24.jpg)
sold Bought this with a buddy to rebuild it but things change and family circumstances dictated he back out. I already have Scratcher so this one is for sale now. It has not run in 10+ years and the motor is blown (hole in block). Unknown if the heads (look to be AFR 210s) are okay. Muncie trans. Dry sump. Motor kicked back (53% on rear according to old weight sheets!!!!!) and C3 IRS. Trick front suspension that is light and quickly spring-rate adjustable. Glass front windshield. Race body comes off with dzus fasteners. Folks, people at HPDE/Races always are shocked to hear how little money I have in Scratcher for beating up on deep 5 and 6 figure (and 7 as well!) cars. At the end of 2014 season I still had under 25k in Scratcher in hard costs (not consumables). Had to get fresh head castings but I'm still under 30 at this point and love it. At the price point of this car, a fresh smallblock is inexpensive (depending on power...could do NASA TT/ST power-to-weight and do very well in ST3/St2/St1) and the overall cost could be substantially less than Scratcher with IRS (I'd kill for that) and more rear weight bias. Scratcher's biggest limitation right now is forward bite off the corners and rear weight bias helps that. This car has great potential. Stop tracking a car that is worth serious money and step over to a tube=style car (this is a heavily modified factory frame) where the body pops off in 5 minutes for ease of work and consumables are reasonable and you could actually go a lot faster. This is clearly a project car, but it seems to all be there (no carb, no battery, etc). I've removed the seat as a potential buyer wanted to see how much room was there (and the seat was not safe by any means!). Put a small block in it, freshen it and go racing....likely vintage eligible. Or swap to LS and get even better weight distribution! TO REITERATE = THIS IS A PROJECT CAR. WILL NEED WORK. SOME FASTENERS MISSING, CAR WAS RACED (body not perfect), ETC ETC. Not a show car... RACE CAR. Will need thorough going-over! Car is located an hour north of Houston (Bryan, TX). Car can be pushed/rolled onto a trailer. I can potentially drive to meet a buyer (depending on schedules and such) for a moderate fee. TONS OF PICTURES AT THIS LINK: http://www.witchdoctormotorsports.com/GTSALE.htm costas (at) witchdoctormotorsports (dot) com for more info or any questions. Costas cars and such...
9 Mar 2016
Full writeup and vids to come, but we ran our endurance car "Bic" at COTA a few weeks ago. I can't really call it a 'crapcan' car anymore since we freshened the motor and actually put some decent dampers on it.
(IMG:http://www.witchdoctormotorsports.com/host370.jpg) (IMG:http://www.witchdoctormotorsports.com/host371.jpg) SATURDAY's 8 hour race: Lost a shift fork in the T5 on Saturday. SUNDAY's 8 hour race: Finished 4th in class. The big thing is we ran competitive times and mostly lost out due to bad breaks with redflags and fuel stops as well as an incorrect 'passing under yellow' penalty where we got hosed. The last race at TWS, we won GP4 both days. It happens. Weighs 3100ish depending on the ballast we're running. Tires must be 180 treadwear or better and we've run the dunlop star specs, the nitto nt05s and tested the Falken Fk615 at COTA. We liked them and will run them the next race. 275.40.17s. Dampers are factory low-mile deCarbons in the rear and the HD bilstein B6 non-adjustables in the front. No rear bar but the huge solid ST bar up front. We run a lot of front spring rate. Next step on handling is to dial in the falkens more and see what they like. We rough-guessed the air pressure for COTA but I'll test soon and we'll hook up my real-time-tire temperature rig (http://www.witchdoctormotorsports.com/ch192.htm) to get the tires in the sweet spot for pressure and alignment settings. Once that is done, we'll see what comes next. Still running the stock front single-piston brakes with good luck, but I'm helping to develop (w/ Stan) a cost-effective kit to run the wilwood superlite calipers with a badass 3-point bracket (most kits, including stock 1LE, use a two point bracket) which is coming soon. We have 3.23 and 3.42 rear ends depending on track. The rears are 4th gen setups and we run the 2.25" bolt on front spacers so we can use easy-n-cheap 4th gen/corvette wheels. WRL has four classes, (GP1, GP2, GP3 and GP4) and they are based on power to weight. We run the slowest class, GP4, which has a power to weight limit of 18 to 1. We have the 170hp TBI 305 and at 18 we need to weigh 3060. Gp3 is 15:1, Gp2 is 13:1 and gp1 is 11:1. Clearly we could go TPI motor and jump classes, but the car is cost effective to run and very fun to drive. I'll post more when we get the story and vids uploaded. I *think* this was the first 3rd gen to actually race at COTA. (dubious honor at best...LOL) Costas cars and such... |
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