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#1
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FRRAX Owner/Admin ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Admin Posts: 15,423 Joined: 13-February 04 From: Ohio Member No.: 196 ![]() |
I got up at 2am and drug a trailer almost 700 miles today to bring home a 2002 Z28 convertible (6 speed manual). It's a virtual twin (other than a convertible instead of t tops) to my original 2002 that I bought new. I actually believe every option matches right down to the color. It came with piles of service records, a receipt for a new GM installed engine (15k miles/4 years ago) as well as new clutch (with the engine), new window regulators and all kinds of other stuff. The previous owners spent a fortune at the dealer with this car. It was a summer car at the house on lake Michigan. I don't think it's ever seen anything beyond some occasional rain. The steering column is tight and there's no major wear on the seats or steering wheel. It has a few small door dings and I think the paintless dent guys can remove those. Overall, it's a solid and clean car that should be lots of fun. It was also dead stock, not so much as a lid on it.
I'm planning to swap on some larger wheels, lower it a bit, stiffen it a bit, sway bars, exhaust and a "lid". I just want a fun driver to enjoy on nice days. I've actually never owned a convertible in my life, I've always had t tops or targa cars....this should be a new adventure. I don't have many pics, but I'll add a few before I crawl off to bed.
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#2
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FRRAX Owner/Admin ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Admin Posts: 15,423 Joined: 13-February 04 From: Ohio Member No.: 196 ![]() |
I just returned home from putting roughly 1000 miles on the car over a long weekend. The slightly warped rotor didn't stay slightly warped for long. It was rather unpleasant on the 8% grades in the mountains. Left unchecked, the car would coast up to nearly 100 mph, touching the brakes felt like it was going to shake the wheels off. Decisions, decisions.... It's "floaty" and a bit scary through the twisty mountain passes. It really doesn't inspire confidence. Honestly, it rides more like a 1977 Eldorado than a performance/GT car. The original shocks were crap when they were new, now they are pretty well wasted. The sway bars do what they can, but usually the car hits the bump stops at some angle (due to body roll) and then waffles on the rebound since the shocks are powerless to stop it. It's been a long time since I've driven a stock one, much less a stock one that wasn't brand new.
Today I added an iPod adapter and disconnected the CD changer. That really helped things seem "normal" again. lol. Now I can just listen to music and not have to pick 12 cds that I'm going to get sick of entirely too soon. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) And I installed front rotors by Centric and Stoptech street pads on all 4 corners. I didn't know that Stoptech made/sold replacement street pads (maybe they don't make them?) and I've never tried them. But I figured it was a good time to try something new. I'll report back once I get them bedded and working. Also, I think I actually removed the original factory pads and rotors today. The rotors had GM part numbers in them, but they also had the retaining clips on the studs....and NOBODY puts those back on (do they?). Inside the Stoptech pads box there was an interesting note that said "Stoptech is the performance division of Centric parts". I had no clue. UMI swaybars are on the way and I think I'm going to pick up a TA Performance rear end cover (I'm changing the fluid anyway, and they are far easier to fill and drain the next time). I'm not completely sure they really help much beyond that, but I think I'll try another one. I was running behind today and didn't get to the PHB or SFCs. I think I'm going to wait for the swaybars and do it all when it's up in the air and level. And I still need to run by the Interstate battery dealer and pick up a battery. This one indicates that it was purchased in 2009. At 7 years old, I think I'll grab a fresh one. Seems like it's only a matter of time. And I finally drove it with the top up. With the top up I can hear the tires roaring (or the bearings). I was trying to decide if the noise was bearings or tires all through my trip this weekend. After removing the wheels today I'm quite sure it's tires. The outer tread blocks are all feathered and uneven and all the tires have more rubber on the inside than the outside. It's been burning the outside edges off the fronts (it tracks straight, but the alignment seems a bit questionable). So, 17" tires and wheels are moving up the list of important things. But I don't want to put tires on it without shocks or align it until the shocks are done. I'll nurse it along while wasting the last of these tires, but I'm likely moving up my schedule to order the UMI coilover kit and some wheels a bit.
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#3
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 919 Joined: 30-December 03 From: Northern NY Member No.: 66 ![]() |
The rotors had GM part numbers in them, but they also had the retaining clips on the studs....and NOBODY puts those back on (do they?). Actually had the car owner buy them from GM for his corvette. I asked him why he uses them? to hold the rotor from falling off!!!!! (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/rotf.gif) I used a lug nut turned around, he was thoroughly impressed with that!!!!! |
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Lo-Fi Version | Time is now: 21st August 2024 - 10:46 PM |