Blaine Fab power steering cooler, for LT1 and LS1 cars |
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Blaine Fab power steering cooler, for LT1 and LS1 cars |
Sep 4 2010, 09:52 PM
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#1
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I build race cars Group: Advanced Members Posts: 4,748 Joined: 31-August 05 From: Central coast, CA Member No.: 874 |
Announcing the Blaine Fab power steering cooler package - this package has been race proven on the Blaine Fab ITE 4th gen, and many AI and CMC 4th gen cars.
Easy install with a drill, pop riveter and screwdriver. No cutting on LT1 cars, uses existing hole in the radiator shroud. LS1 cars require cutting a hole in the plastic shroud. Package includes: B&M stacked plate cooler pipe to -AN adapters -AN hose ends Goodyear power steering hose aluminum bracket, predrilled and attached to cooler pop rivets for attachment to shroud Cost is $145 + CA sales tax for deliveries in CA, + shipping add 2qt of Redline Power steering fluid for $24 (IMG:http://www.blainefabrication.com/projects/2010_04_02/IMG_3383.JPG) This post has been edited by Blainefab: Mar 26 2015, 12:53 AM |
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Oct 18 2011, 05:03 PM
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#2
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Experienced Member Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,038 Joined: 3-March 10 From: Huntersville, NC Member No.: 9,105 |
I wanted to give a little review of this product.
I've had it on my car for a few months now, and with 2 full HPDE's at VIR (Virginia International Raceway). First, I want to say that Alan puts together a very nice kit. It's very simple to install, and only took me maybe 30 minutes from start to finish. The PS cooler works very well. I used to have to clean up PS fluid after every session, even in cool weather and the PS pump would be very loud upon exiting the track. With the cooler, no noise from the PS pump, and the fluid has not boiled over at all. It works like a charm. I have an old PS pump (could be the original), that's been abused by past track days, and I used PS fluid from Advanced. Alan's PS cooler is worth every penny, and as always, it's a pleasure doing business with him. I highly recommend it. I snapped this pic with my phone to show it installed on my car. (IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v199/Steve91T/Camaro/2011-10-18_12-41-18_666.jpg) |
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Nov 23 2012, 09:44 PM
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#3
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Member Group: Advanced Members Posts: 115 Joined: 17-September 10 From: DFW Member No.: 21,095 |
alan:
are you still selling these? |
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Mar 7 2013, 04:51 AM
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#4
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I build race cars Group: Advanced Members Posts: 4,748 Joined: 31-August 05 From: Central coast, CA Member No.: 874 |
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Jan 7 2014, 07:16 AM
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#5
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newbie Group: Members Posts: 14 Joined: 4-November 13 Member No.: 223,778 |
Looks like a fairly clean setup. I may purchase one from you in the coming season, assuming you are putting them together still.
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Jan 10 2014, 08:58 PM
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#6
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I build race cars Group: Advanced Members Posts: 4,748 Joined: 31-August 05 From: Central coast, CA Member No.: 874 |
Looks like a fairly clean setup. I may purchase one from you in the coming season, assuming you are putting them together still. Yes. still part of my product line. I try to keep one set of parts in stock, if not my disti always has stock of the piece parts. This post has been edited by Blainefab: May 18 2014, 11:28 PM |
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Apr 26 2015, 09:50 PM
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#7
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newbie Group: Members Posts: 5 Joined: 31-August 14 From: IL Member No.: 223,834 |
LS1 Camaro: Am I meant to attach the cooler to the plastic shroud bottom, or to the metal frame beneath that? It is not too clear where it should attach. Also, is the plastic shroud enough to hold the cooler in place by the bottom only, or do I attach somewhere near the top as well?
TIA (IMG:http://i.imgur.com/Ru7SNMZ.jpg) This post has been edited by Libertyforall1776: Apr 28 2015, 12:59 AM |
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Apr 27 2015, 12:06 AM
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#8
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I build race cars Group: Advanced Members Posts: 4,748 Joined: 31-August 05 From: Central coast, CA Member No.: 874 |
LS1 Camaro: Am I meant to attach the cooler to the plastic shroud bottom, or to the metal frame beneath that? It is not too clear where it should attach. Also, is the plastic shroud enough to hold the cooler in place by the bottom only, or do I attach somewhere near the top as well? TIA The cooler bracket goes under the bottom edge of the plastic shroud - my pics are down right now, but Steve posted a pic of his install on a LT1 car, a couple of posts up. The LS1 install is very similar - same place. The template wraps around the bottom corner of the shroud, mark and cut the hole with a dremel or knife, hold the cooler in place and mark the holes thru the bracket. Drill parallel to the face of the radiator, do not drill into the radiator. Once the cooler is attached at the bottom and the hoses are routed, zip tie the hoses to the fan shroud to support them from flopping around. This is all the support that the cooler needs. |
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Apr 27 2015, 01:09 AM
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#9
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Member Group: Advanced Members Posts: 41 Joined: 20-March 15 Member No.: 223,865 |
Is the price still the same?
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Apr 27 2015, 02:27 AM
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#10
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I build race cars Group: Advanced Members Posts: 4,748 Joined: 31-August 05 From: Central coast, CA Member No.: 874 |
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Apr 29 2015, 10:50 PM
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#11
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I build race cars Group: Advanced Members Posts: 4,748 Joined: 31-August 05 From: Central coast, CA Member No.: 874 |
Several folks have asked about my solution for PS fluid puking out of the reservoir - the OEM reservoir is just too small to handle the volume, esp after it heats up. Running the level at the very lowest possible helps, but more volume is better for heat control, not less.
I've been installing the Woodward PS reservoir - it solves all the puking issues, adds volume to the system, and is easy to mount and plumb. Here it is (on the left) in Kens car - for a stripped track car there are lots of places it can go: (IMG:http://www.blainefabrication.com/projects/2010_05_20/IMG_3629.JPG) I'm considering adding a reservoir option to my product line it would include the bracket, fittings and hose. I'd like to make it as plug 'n play as possible, but don't have a stock LS1 car here at the shop for fitment. If anybody local has a LS1 car and would like a discount in exchange for me test fitting the reservoir, please give me a call. This post has been edited by Blainefab: Jul 23 2016, 05:49 AM |
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Apr 29 2015, 10:55 PM
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#12
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Member Group: Advanced Members Posts: 115 Joined: 17-September 10 From: DFW Member No.: 21,095 |
Several folks have asked about my solution for PS fluid puking out of the reservoir - the OEM reservoir is just to small to handle the volume, esp after it heats up. Running the level at the very lowest possible helps, but more volume is better for heat control, not less. I've been installing the Woodward PS reservoir - it solves all the puking issues, adds volume to the system, and is easy to mount and plumb. Here it is (on the left) in Kens car - for a stripped track there are lots of place it can go: I'm considering adding a reservoir option to my product line it would include the bracket, fittings and hose. I'd like to make it as plug 'n play as possible, but don't have a stock LS1 car here at the shop for fitment. If anybody local has a LS1 car and would like a discount in exchange for me test fitting the reservoir, please give me a call. cool. this may be a dumb question. does the woodward reservoir replace the OEM reservoir or is it a second reservoir? This post has been edited by jdoyle: Apr 29 2015, 10:56 PM |
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Apr 29 2015, 10:57 PM
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#13
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I build race cars Group: Advanced Members Posts: 4,748 Joined: 31-August 05 From: Central coast, CA Member No.: 874 |
Several folks have asked about my solution for PS fluid puking out of the reservoir - the OEM reservoir is just to small to handle the volume, esp after it heats up. Running the level at the very lowest possible helps, but more volume is better for heat control, not less. I've been installing the Woodward PS reservoir - it solves all the puking issues, adds volume to the system, and is easy to mount and plumb. Here it is (on the left) in Kens car - for a stripped track there are lots of place it can go: I'm considering adding a reservoir option to my product line it would include the bracket, fittings and hose. I'd like to make it as plug 'n play as possible, but don't have a stock LS1 car here at the shop for fitment. If anybody local has a LS1 car and would like a discount in exchange for me test fitting the reservoir, please give me a call. cool. this may be a dumb question. does the woodward reservoir replace the OEM reservoir or is it a second reservoir? It would replace the OEM part. |
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May 20 2015, 02:48 PM
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#14
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Member Group: Advanced Members Posts: 217 Joined: 6-March 07 Member No.: 1,710 |
If I was close you could use mine. I'm ready to order the reservoir-wasn't sure about the bracket as what you show in your picture I don't think is on there website. Haven't looked at what kind of fitting and hoses I would need as well. I'm tired of the mess.
I added the BlaineFab cooler kit before my last race. Excellent kit that had everything I needed-well I needed extra pop rivets but that's because of user error. Highly recommended. |
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Jun 18 2015, 09:51 PM
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#15
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Member Group: Advanced Members Posts: 115 Joined: 17-September 10 From: DFW Member No.: 21,095 |
Alan, I'd like to help you out if you haven't found someone to test your new reservoir idea.
Also, i have essentially zero experience with AN fittings. i have a SMALL leak either where the AN fittings meet the cooler or at the AN swivel. In your experience, do the AN fittings need to be tightened down a lot to not leak? Thank you This post has been edited by jdoyle: Jun 18 2015, 09:54 PM |
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Jun 19 2015, 12:53 AM
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#16
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I build race cars Group: Advanced Members Posts: 4,748 Joined: 31-August 05 From: Central coast, CA Member No.: 874 |
Alan, I'd like to help you out if you haven't found someone to test your new reservoir idea. Also, i have essentially zero experience with AN fittings. i have a SMALL leak either where the AN fittings meet the cooler or at the AN swivel. In your experience, do the AN fittings need to be tightened down a lot to not leak? Thank you The AN flare fitting seals with very little pressure, that's why AN wrenches are so short - choke up on your wrench till it's effectively about 6" long, and tighten the AN fitting snug. The 1/2" NPT to AN6 adapters are sealed with pipe dope or teflon tape - if that is the source of the leak, you'll need to remove the AN fitting, remove the adapter, clean both male and female threads, being careful to not get any thread sealant inside the cooler, and then reapply thread sealant. To remove/replace the adapter, put a wrench on the cooler fitting to avoid overstressing the brazed connection. It will help to clean it up real good - a shot of brakeclean works, or soapy water and a rinse. Then watch for the leak source. |
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Apr 5 2016, 03:41 PM
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#17
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Member Group: Advanced Members Posts: 115 Joined: 17-September 10 From: DFW Member No.: 21,095 |
Alan, I'd like to help you out if you haven't found someone to test your new reservoir idea. Also, i have essentially zero experience with AN fittings. i have a SMALL leak either where the AN fittings meet the cooler or at the AN swivel. In your experience, do the AN fittings need to be tightened down a lot to not leak? Thank you The AN flare fitting seals with very little pressure, that's why AN wrenches are so short - choke up on your wrench till it's effectively about 6" long, and tighten the AN fitting snug. The 1/2" NPT to AN6 adapters are sealed with pipe dope or teflon tape - if that is the source of the leak, you'll need to remove the AN fitting, remove the adapter, clean both male and female threads, being careful to not get any thread sealant inside the cooler, and then reapply thread sealant. To remove/replace the adapter, put a wrench on the cooler fitting to avoid overstressing the brazed connection. It will help to clean it up real good - a shot of brakeclean works, or soapy water and a rinse. Then watch for the leak source. what pipe dope do you like to use? can i thread both connections with teflon tape? the swivel to the other AN and the other AN to the cooler. do you prefer dope or tape? Thank you very much for assisting me with my issue. This post has been edited by jdoyle: Apr 5 2016, 03:41 PM |
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Apr 6 2016, 03:37 PM
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#18
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Veteran Member Group: Advanced Members Posts: 3,835 Joined: 3-July 04 From: Pearland, Texas Member No.: 385 |
Hmm, how tall is that reservoir, Alan? I am running an Afco reservoir and still getting drips even when using dirt-track PSF that's supposed to be more viscous. It looks like a lot of thought went into the construction of the Woodward reservoirs. It might be time to update. I was thinking of trying to add some sort of breather, to prevent pushing the fluid around the cap when things heat up, but this might be a better solution. Thanks.
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Apr 9 2016, 09:54 PM
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#19
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I build race cars Group: Advanced Members Posts: 4,748 Joined: 31-August 05 From: Central coast, CA Member No.: 874 |
Alan, I'd like to help you out if you haven't found someone to test your new reservoir idea. Also, i have essentially zero experience with AN fittings. i have a SMALL leak either where the AN fittings meet the cooler or at the AN swivel. In your experience, do the AN fittings need to be tightened down a lot to not leak? Thank you The AN flare fitting seals with very little pressure, that's why AN wrenches are so short - choke up on your wrench till it's effectively about 6" long, and tighten the AN fitting snug. The 1/2" NPT to AN6 adapters are sealed with pipe dope or teflon tape - if that is the source of the leak, you'll need to remove the AN fitting, remove the adapter, clean both male and female threads, being careful to not get any thread sealant inside the cooler, and then reapply thread sealant. To remove/replace the adapter, put a wrench on the cooler fitting to avoid overstressing the brazed connection. It will help to clean it up real good - a shot of brakeclean works, or soapy water and a rinse. Then watch for the leak source. what pipe dope do you like to use? can i thread both connections with teflon tape? the swivel to the other AN and the other AN to the cooler. do you prefer dope or tape? Thank you very much for assisting me with my issue. I use Permatex High Temp thread sealant - it's a white goo. I use the thread sealant on NPT threads sealing wet stuff, teflon tape on dry. AN fittings get only a dab of antiseize on the threads, make sure the conical seating faces are clean and dry. Tighten with a short wrench - do not overtighten. |
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Apr 9 2016, 10:09 PM
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#20
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I build race cars Group: Advanced Members Posts: 4,748 Joined: 31-August 05 From: Central coast, CA Member No.: 874 |
Hmm, how tall is that reservoir, Alan? I am running an Afco reservoir and still getting drips even when using dirt-track PSF that's supposed to be more viscous. It looks like a lot of thought went into the construction of the Woodward reservoirs. It might be time to update. I was thinking of trying to add some sort of breather, to prevent pushing the fluid around the cap when things heat up, but this might be a better solution. Thanks. The Woodward reservoir is 10" tall cap to bottom of outlet fitting - it comes with -6an male inlet, -10an male outlet fittings. I have a couple in stock, along with mounting brackets, 5/8" ID Gates PS return hose. I stocked up on this stuff before I realized that the OEM Fbody LS1 PS reservoir is not removable from the pump without some fab work. I can make a bolt on package for the LT1 cars or any other application with an external reservoir. The Woodward reservoir is definitely a nice piece - the double wall de-aerates the fluid. I've use this reservoir on all my builds, never had a problem. here it is next to a 2qt Canton coolant recirc tank: (IMG:http://www.blainefabrication.com/projects/2010_05_20/IMG_3629.JPG) This post has been edited by Blainefab: Jul 23 2016, 05:42 AM |
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