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#1
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Experienced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,279 Joined: 4-May 04 From: Kenvil, NJ Member No.: 331 ![]() |
I made a tablet mount for my Firebird, galaxy Tab A, random amazon case, running solostorm. The tablet and case weigh in at just under 1.5 pounds.
Each side of the mount is 35mm wide and held to the dash with two 1/4-20 bolts, the cross bar is 25mm tall. The dash is backed up with 1/8" steel plate (should have swiss cheesed it some) with nutserts, the dash is drilled larger than the nutsert 'heads' to let the plate sit flush and the plate is RTV'd in place. The latch pivot is two #10 screws, I tapped the latch to screw them in nicely. I was going to use an o-ring or spring to keep the latch closed, but it snaps in place over the case pretty well. I printed the whole mess with Overture PETG with 4 top and bottom layers, 4 walls, and 20% infill on an Ender 3 V2. I used freecad to model it... many times! My main concern is either the 30+ year old dash plastic cracking or the PETG melting during the summer. The car is towed almost everywhere as the sun is coming up and the windows are open most of the day once I get there unless it's raining. The tow home is mostly after the hottest part of the day. Sometimes I'll tow the car all day long with the windows up for national events, for those days I can unbolt the mount (another reason for the backing plate, nutserts, and RTV). Here are some pics along with other things I've printed. https://www.flickr.com/photos/193181084@N08/ |
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#2
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 603 Joined: 30-December 03 From: Columbus, OH Member No.: 70 ![]() |
Nice project. I don't think you'll have any problem with PETG melting. If you had used PLA, you would have a problem.
I've been doing 3D printing for 7 years. This post has been edited by axoid: Jun 12 2021, 12:01 AM |
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#3
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Experienced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,279 Joined: 4-May 04 From: Kenvil, NJ Member No.: 331 ![]() |
Thanks, I just got an Ender 3 V2 in January and had to teach myself Freecad after 15+ years of not using any 3d software (they've changed a lot in that time!)
I thought I had all my settings dialed it great, but I fooled myself by only printing larger things with carefully placed overhangs. I tried a few print in place toys for my son and had nothing but problems, either poor adhesion or overhangs that curled up then got hung up on the nozzle and came loose. Have you tried printing ABS or some of the more exotic stuff yet? Do you have a good source for learning tips and tricks? All I found are some facebook groups but they're overrun with really new people asking the same questions over and over because searching on Facebook is a nightmare. |
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#4
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Veteran Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 3,823 Joined: 3-July 04 From: Pearland, Texas Member No.: 385 ![]() |
That's cool! Nice work. I wish I had the patience for 3D printing. I'd do parts for the scale models I build.
We have a Galaxy Tab 4 that's in an Otterbox enclosure. We clip it into a ProClips tablet holder that's mounted on the dash of our Firebird. I pulled the map pouch off the right side and bolted the mount to the left edge of that section of the dash. While probably not needed, I added a small bungee cord to the edge of the bracket and wrapped it around the vent frame that's in the center of the dash to reduce vibrations. We've had that mount probably 10 years with zero issues. The car has no side glass, but the roof and dash pad protect most of the mounting bracket from the hottest sun. The tablet doesn't stay mounted to the car, and only 'rides' when we're competing. We have a big Pelican box where our tablet/cameras/GPS/spare autocross forms/magnetic numbers ride (our 'track box'). That stays in the house between events. |
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#5
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Experienced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,279 Joined: 4-May 04 From: Kenvil, NJ Member No.: 331 ![]() |
I looked at the pro clip options and wasn't thrilled with what they had for 3rd gens, nothing bolt in if I remember right.
3d printing is all about patience, both learning it and waiting for it to finish once you get the printer off to a good start... then it feels like you're crossing your fingers for hours hoping that nothing goes wrong! With the prototypes, mistakes, and other changes I probably have almost 100 hours just in printing the tablet mount! That doesn't include the time modeling it all in the first place. |
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#6
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 603 Joined: 30-December 03 From: Columbus, OH Member No.: 70 ![]() |
Thanks, I just got an Ender 3 V2 in January and had to teach myself Freecad after 15+ years of not using any 3d software (they've changed a lot in that time!) I thought I had all my settings dialed it great, but I fooled myself by only printing larger things with carefully placed overhangs. I tried a few print in place toys for my son and had nothing but problems, either poor adhesion or overhangs that curled up then got hung up on the nozzle and came loose. Have you tried printing ABS or some of the more exotic stuff yet? Do you have a good source for learning tips and tricks? All I found are some facebook groups but they're overrun with really new people asking the same questions over and over because searching on Facebook is a nightmare. I did some 3D modeling in the 90s when I was playing CGI tools. Since I got into 3D printing I have been using Freecad as well. I ha ven't use ABS. Just PLA, PETG, and a little nylon. I haven't used PLA in years and nylon that I have is very hard to work with, I'm looking at maybe a different version of it. The biggest issue with PETG is that it is sticky when extruding. Some things to try is to slow the printer down whit small objects and turn on the cooling fans that points at the print. Another thing you can try is reduce the amount filament that you extruding. I'm not familiar with the Ender 3. What surface are you printing on? Is it heated? My build plate is 1/4 inch heated aluminum plate. I use painter's tape on the plate and scuff it up with sand paper. When I need more adhesion I use Elmer's glue sick or spread on clear Elmer's glue and let it dry. My best sugestion for learning that I can suggest is https://groups.google.com/g/3d-printing-tips--tricks. Most of what I have been printing in the last year are parts and thing for my RC drag cars. |
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#7
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Experienced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,279 Joined: 4-May 04 From: Kenvil, NJ Member No.: 331 ![]() |
Sticky is a good way of describing PETG, I get all kinds of build up around the nozzle and it eventually falls into the infill or on the bed (which is more annoying than anything). The Ender 3 version 2 is a fairly low end machine (I spent $310 on the printer, 2 rolls of filament, and an extra memory card) but it comes with a 2 sided bed. One side is plain glass and the other has a texture on it. For PLA I just clean the bed with rubbing alcohol and level/tram it when the bed gets up to temperature. With PETG I usually use masking tape since I read it can fuse to the glass bed, but the last thing I printed in PETG I put right on the textured side of the bed. I wound up needing to let it sit over night (used a smart switch to kill the power) but in the morning the part came right off the bed.
I still have to figure out the trick to get multiple parts assembled in freecad, I'll get around to googling that eventually. Thanks for the google groups link! |
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#8
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 662 Joined: 30-January 15 From: Columbus, OH Member No.: 223,855 ![]() |
Thanks, I just got an Ender 3 V2 in January and had to teach myself Freecad after 15+ years of not using any 3d software (they've changed a lot in that time!) I thought I had all my settings dialed it great, but I fooled myself by only printing larger things with carefully placed overhangs. I tried a few print in place toys for my son and had nothing but problems, either poor adhesion or overhangs that curled up then got hung up on the nozzle and came loose. Have you tried printing ABS or some of the more exotic stuff yet? Do you have a good source for learning tips and tricks? All I found are some facebook groups but they're overrun with really new people asking the same questions over and over because searching on Facebook is a nightmare. I did some 3D modeling in the 90s when I was playing CGI tools. Since I got into 3D printing I have been using Freecad as well. I ha ven't use ABS. Just PLA, PETG, and a little nylon. I haven't used PLA in years and nylon that I have is very hard to work with, I'm looking at maybe a different version of it. The biggest issue with PETG is that it is sticky when extruding. Some things to try is to slow the printer down whit small objects and turn on the cooling fans that points at the print. Another thing you can try is reduce the amount filament that you extruding. I'm not familiar with the Ender 3. What surface are you printing on? Is it heated? My build plate is 1/4 inch heated aluminum plate. I use painter's tape on the plate and scuff it up with sand paper. When I need more adhesion I use Elmer's glue sick or spread on clear Elmer's glue and let it dry. My best sugestion for learning that I can suggest is https://groups.google.com/g/3d-printing-tips--tricks. Most of what I have been printing in the last year are parts and thing for my RC drag cars. Where are they racing R/C drag around here? I used to be big into R/C racing at CRCRC and CORCAR about 20 years ago. |
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#9
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 603 Joined: 30-December 03 From: Columbus, OH Member No.: 70 ![]() |
Where are they racing R/C drag around here? I used to be big into R/C racing at CRCRC and CORCAR about 20 years ago. I was around during CRCRC and CORCAR days too. I don't know of races in Columbus or it's burbs. There is racing in Cinci, Dayton area, Newark and some other places around the state. It's all organized in Facebook groups. Newark is having a list race this Saturday. https://www.facebook.com/groups/198936138568010 |
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#10
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 603 Joined: 30-December 03 From: Columbus, OH Member No.: 70 ![]() |
Sticky is a good way of describing PETG, I get all kinds of build up around the nozzle and it eventually falls into the infill or on the bed (which is more annoying than anything). The Ender 3 version 2 is a fairly low end machine (I spent $310 on the printer, 2 rolls of filament, and an extra memory card) but it comes with a 2 sided bed. One side is plain glass and the other has a texture on it. For PLA I just clean the bed with rubbing alcohol and level/tram it when the bed gets up to temperature. With PETG I usually use masking tape since I read it can fuse to the glass bed, but the last thing I printed in PETG I put right on the textured side of the bed. I wound up needing to let it sit over night (used a smart switch to kill the power) but in the morning the part came right off the bed. I still have to figure out the trick to get multiple parts assembled in freecad, I'll get around to googling that eventually. Thanks for the google groups link! I don't have a detachable bed so I haven't tried it, but one trick I've head when getting prints off of glass plates is to put them in the refrigerator and they will pop off. |
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#11
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Experienced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,279 Joined: 4-May 04 From: Kenvil, NJ Member No.: 331 ![]() |
I tossed my bed in the freezer when I was in a hurry and didn't want to hammer some small parts off of it. It seemed to help a bit.
I made another PETG part this week right on the textured bed, let it sit for an hour or so before I was able to get to it, and it popped right off with a good twist. Too bad I rushed the design and should redo it at some point! I have to say, the ability to dream up, design, then print something in a few hours total has made me a bit lazy. It feels like I would be a bit more thought out cutting and drilling than clicking and printing! |
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