I can’t even get a response on Facebook. Everything I search is “thow that 10 bolt in the trash”.

I want to remove my stock LSD out of my 1997 rear end and install a True Track (most likely).

What do you guys think? Should I even attempt it?

If you've got the time, tools and a bench, to put the rear on, its not bad. If you're like me you'll put it together and pull it apart 5 times before you're happy with the backlash and gear pattern. The GM tolerances are pretty generous if I remeber correctly(been 3 years) but I wanted as close to perfect as I could get it: hoping it'll last longer. If you don't have an indicator and suitable base you're gonna need to drop some decent money on those tools.

I used my trusty dealership service manual(ebay find) and a generic book off amazon on 10bolt rebuilds. I did a tru-trac and 3.73 gear swap + new seals/bearings, car does not have ABS.

Disclaimer: I do CNC work. So doing setup with .0005 indicators is my daily grind(until finish my degree); your experience may vary.

What about Youtube? there has to be something there. It really is not hard work but it can eat up sometime to get it right. I would suggest starting your measurements with the factory shims and go from there. It is usually very close. You will need a dial indicator with a magnetic base and a good dial caliper or micrometer to measure the shim thickness. and do not use blue Prussian blue it is harder to see the tooth contact pattern if you ask me. The yellow is nice.

There are a ton of YouTube videos, but all for other rear ends. I don’t know how similar they all are.

If I were doing the job I'd measure the backlash and then aim to duplicate it. Pinion depth won't change so all you have to do is get the diff in the right position.

You might get away with simply swapping the original bearings and shims to the new diff... but you'll have to readjust the shims if it's not spot on. Do you have a decent bearing puller? That's the real issue here. If you don't then you might better take it to a shop.

No I don’t. I don’t have any tools for this job. I’m just sick of paying people to do work....I get over charged and I’m less than impressed with their work. For the amount of labor involved, I could buy all the tools I need.

But then again, I know this is a little different.

Speedway Engineering has a great pinion depth tool. Also ended up buying a real pinion bearing puller on Ebay that made everything so much easier. HF pullers are junk and will not work for this job.

Pinion depth will change if you go beyond just pulling the diff.

This post has been edited by landstuhltaylor: Oct 31 2017, 03:07 PM

Danger Will Robinson! This is very different. I have not seen the carrier but in some cases a two jaw puller can do the trick. You should buy OTC and not chinese here. The clamshell puller is a better way and on some carriers the only way without a bearing separator... and bearing separators are not as fool proof as clamshell pullers. A proper clamshell bearing puller will run you $350 for the Chinese version.

I don't think you'll have to touch the pinion depth. Question is do you think it's worth the price of the tool to diy?

Not anymore I don’t.

Pretty sure this is the puller I bought

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Carrier-Bearing-Pu...64AAOxyfS1RzbgR

That's it. And that's the best price I've seen so far. nice.

Ok I’ll pay someone. The guy who did the clutch on my truck is pretty good. His day job is rebuilding the right side of a top fuel engine...pretty cool.

About how much should I expect to pay for this?

I've been quoted anywhere from 150 to 1000 depending on the amount of work involved for the mechanic (1k for a front Dana 60 4x4). I'd expect a good mechanic to be able to do the job in 3-4 hours but you may be quoted as much as 6. Tell 'em the Internet sent ya! (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

I was thinking 2-3 hrs. I was close enough.

Is there a break in period? I hope not. I’m going to hopefully get it installed next week and a few days later I’ll be doing a time trial at CMP.

For a diff? Nah, slam it in there and go to the track.

New plan! The small race shop that has done some small welding stuff and also corner balanced my cars said he’d only charge me $200-$300 and he’ll even let me do most of the work while he helps me.

https://youtu.be/y4HhJ5WyRp4

Is this accurate? If so, I don’t see anything too difficult.