New here, and seems to be the place to be....
Short history, started HPDE last fall at NJMP,
After 10 days went and bought a
1998 Trans Am, which was built by Wheel to Wheel in Detroit,
ran Motorola/Rolex GT 1998-2002, then became ITe/AIX car.

Now it's a HPDE /Track DayCar
THat I am TRYING TO SORT>>>>>>>>>>>maybe TT in the future..

MAJOR ISSUE: BRAKES SHI**TY............Must hit pedal 2x's to set up for turn....
Specs:
1998 Trans Am / 392 RWHP LS6 / Son of TransZilla T56 (yea that was a 5k mistake, visit that later)
SLP Konis, rear adjustable seats, Front NASCAR sway bay, Rear Blade Sway Bar
17x11 CCW275/40 17 R1's

Need insight on how to make this car brake as well as my 13' 1LE Camaro
currently , WW 6SLR fronts, new rotors, new hats, PBR rears
Corner balanced to 49.8 % a week ago, (still LF ride height 3/4 lower, so I screwded up
my first attempt!!!)
Car has proven history,
looking for insight on how to make right!!
Thanks from new guy,
Rich
hookdup@comc a st dott net
ps how do add pics on this forum??

Check the front wheels bearings for slack.

What rear end and posi unit are in the car?

C Clip rear ends like the stock one have pad knockback, it requires a pedal pump prior to the brake zone.


Pics?

I do not know how to add attachment, do I have to have posted on server?
A couple guys noticed , when I ran this car, I was braking, well brake light where I never braked before...
in apprehension, as , still learning.
Rear is Auburn, w/ 3.73, Auburn seems to think it is a pro series, (I do not know how to verify "Woobler)
Break away rolling torque when I check diff was 55 ft lbs. as measured on lug nut as per info from Auburn.
Front wheel bearing SEEM ok..
Strange part when I got car, was neither I , or wildwood could explain why 4-5 of the radial rotor
grooves were worn flat yet one remained..
SO I installed new hats and rotors

Was Originally, # 46 MBR Racing / Mike Baughman
Who was very helpful in learning history,
Then Ran ITE/AIX ( Have both books) mostly VIR/Summit pT.
by a guy who jumped to Vipers..

This post has been edited by Hookdup: Jul 30 2014, 01:28 AM

Check for front hub play by wiggling at 12 and 6 o'clock

Check that the hats are sitting flat on the hubs - uneven wear on the rotor indicates runout, which would cause severe knockback. Look for witness marks inside your old hats

Check that all brake hardware is tight, pad backing plates are not bent

Check the pads for delamination of the pad from the backing plate

Check rear axle end play, push/pull in/out on the wheel

Are rear calipers OEM sliders? They work the best on the cclip axles, 4 piston rears don't like end play

Bleed the brakes

Are there any brake systems add-ons? recirc/bias/ABS etc?

Still using the booster, or manual brakes?

Check for worn or loose hardware on the pedal to booster linkage, and booster/master cyl mounting.

Check for cracking of the firewall at the booster mount

publish your pic on a hosting site, click on the 'insert image' tag in the menu above your posting window, copy the URL of the pic into the pop up, click on OK

This post has been edited by Blainefab: Jul 30 2014, 05:53 AM

One very important thing as well - caliper guide pins. They gotta be cleaned an lubed often. I did mine every pad change. I also used a very high temp caliper guide pin lube.
If the caliper can't float, it will knock the pistons back.
Hitting curbs will also add tot he knockback.

Sent you a message

is this the yellow car?

just another thing to check. My master cylinder had a leak. test yours. Keep car off. Pump up the brake pedal until its firm and hold it there. Does it go back to the floor eventually?

Did most people in those series stretch 275s over 11" wide wheels??

(IMG:http://www.ponycars.net/tempimages/yellowbird.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.ponycars.net/tempimages/yellowbird2.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.ponycars.net/tempimages/yellowbird3.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.ponycars.net/tempimages/yellowbird4.jpg)

Yea my shop, shop , my pics,,,
How did you do that??????????
and who were you at NJMP.
I am LOST>>>>>>>>>
I did get 5 good 25 minute sessions with PCA Schattenbaum on Friday.
All good, except for the "PRE-BRAKING" LOTS of pad knockback....

NO speedo, no timer, but seem to remain out front in HPDE 3/4
until I was tired of that and wanted the follow for a while...
Hopefully I will get set up with some sort of timer.
I have used my iphone in the 1LE Camaro, is there anything I may install, that is cost effective?

ps... If I may, how do I post the suspension pics, car , is and was competitive,
although some stuff disappeared over the years, e.g. Carrera coilovers,
still have 2 sets, but not knowing if I need or are they usable.
The rear swaybar is a mystery.
also the front nascar style is as well.

BRING ON THE ARCHIVES , AND PAST EXPERIENCES,
THanks to all

Rich / Captains Outfitters / Ocean Customs

Assuming rumble strips, you are calling curbs.
I am very content as now staying at NJMP as it it is only 45 miles from home,
and proudly an equal opportunity participater, be it, PCA, BMWCCA, NASA, or open track days...
( all this started 17 track days ago , with my 2013 1LE, cause It was too rough to go tuna fishing...
Little did the GF know!!!!!!!!!

Cool car man!

That car looks familiar to me. Do you know if it ever ran the "12 hours at the point" at summit point? I remember a very similar car with a Sunoco sticker on the back and possibly the same number. Somewhere I have a pic of it passing a miata. Or I ran across it at Road Atlanta possibly or VIR at an AIX race. It looks familiar to me.

Will check the SCCA and NASA books,
yes, the owner from 02-10', ran at VIR and Summit, I believe was always # 46,
even when originally ran, by MBR Racing, Mike Baughman, in the Motorola/Rolex GT Series 98-02
Then by David Rankin, of WV. in ITE/AIx, ( SP/VIR)

Any info would be great, builds history!!!!!
Got this car, because I did not want to tear up my new Camaro

You should move the accusump holddown clamps to the very ends of the cylinder - the snap ring or threads there can fail, making a big mess. Wrap the clamps around the weak point and you'll be good. Also if the clamps are real tight they could distort the cylinder shape, causing the piston to bind up.

ref: http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/index.php?s=&...ost&p=88558

I'm guessing that ain't quite street legal anymore (at least not in Joyzee/Pennsy, huh? (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

Thanks did move them, as I was apprehensive as well, when I moved a bunch of stuff inside, the accusump was moved, to be comfortable for elbow should need be,
also switch panel moved to center,
NASA annual tech had me change braided reinforced hose, as I had a aeroquip 300 series push lok, but they preferred braided ss.
Now since I have a temp annual, I have to disassemble fuel cell to get pic of serial number of bladder,
to coincide with the receipt, which shows less than 5 years old.
is this normal?

Surely NOT,
was purchased to replace, or in lieu of adding additional $ to my 13' 1LE Camaro,
figured
seats, harness bar/cage, harnesses, rims /tires, ( already had trailer)
but then my new car would become a track toy (rat)

The rule used to require metal reinforced hose in the cabin, but was recently changed to just say 'reinforced' in order to allow modern lightweight Kevlar, etc reinforced hoses. A lot of rubber automotive hose has an internal fiber reinforcement, which meets the letter of the rule, but there is no way for tech to verify the reinforcement without cutting your hose, so as a practical matter use an externally reinforced hose.

Physically matching cell marking with the receipt is thorough, not all techs will look for this detail. SOP for me when installing a bladder is to take pics of it, including the expiration date: http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/index.php?s=&...st&p=156774