Greetings fellow F-body enthusiast!

I've created this new topic to introduce Hoosier Performance Engineering's first new product; a clean sheet approach to a billet front hub and bearing assembly for the 4th Gen F-bodies and C4 Corvettes. Many of the other hub/bearing threads are getting pretty long and don't really end with a sustainable solution, so I thought a new thread was in order.

I won't bore you with the details on HPE, other than to say a group of highly qualified and skilled automotive engineers have gotten together to create performance products for the 4th Gens and modern muscle cars. You can read more about HPE on the General Discussions forum where Kevin introduced HPE as a new sponsor.

I've been contemplating the 4th Gen front hub issues since I returned to Auto-X in the fall of '97 with the purchase of my first TA and began working in earnest on new designs in November of last year. What you see below is the result of two gear-heads' work for the past 7 or 8 months, plus over $6000 worth of invested in prototypes, tooling and CNC programming. Prototypes are installed and accumulating mileage and we will be ready to take orders as soon as the machine shop volume quotation is received and final pricing can is set. (Trying to wrap up pricing yet this week.)

I'll let the pictures do the talking first, and then will follow up with some detailed descriptions of the components. Enjoy.

Finished product:
(IMG:https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/1014542_375876139190953_1528206097_o.jpg) , (IMG:https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/976331_375876125857621_1907471607_o.jpg)

Here's a disassembled OEM hub and the new HPE replacement parts. Note the OEM uses ball bearings while the other is tapered roller. On Timken's website, the tapered bearings are rated much higher in every category vs. the ball bearings. Small bearing has a 1.25" ID and the large bearing has an 1.5" ID. For comparison, the old GM RWD cars used like 7/8" and 1" bearings with the front spindle design.
(IMG:https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc1/1009411_377277199050847_782089290_o.jpg)
(IMG:https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/999016_377277289050838_494724905_n.jpg)
(IMG:https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/1009351_377277345717499_1374075883_o.jpg)
(IMG:https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/1015137_377277329050834_2109600006_o.jpg)

We use an inverted spindle design, much like OEM part, except ours is a two piece design with a wheel mounting flange and pin (spindle) that we shrink fit together. The shrink fit provides three times the push out force of an equivalent press fit. Pin, flange and housing were all coated with a clear zinc treatment. The pin has been case hardened in the two areas where the bearing races will rest. The mounting flange is case hardened where the seal will run. Specs were per the Timken recommendations for the bearings used.
(IMG:https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc1/1008279_375876219190945_1586806985_o.jpg)

Pin with locking washer, nut and small cap screws. The washer engages the key way in the in threaded end of the pin, the nut is added and torqued to desired preload, and when the threaded holes in the nut lines up with the holes in the washer, the cap screws are added as the retention mechanism, basically replacing the cotter pin in similar parts.
(IMG:https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/1014577_375876269190940_1184777397_o.jpg)
(IMG:https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/1015262_375876245857609_442072466_o.jpg)

Sub-assembly shown with dry bearings for clarity.
(IMG:https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/1015600_377277409050826_1257648155_o.jpg)

These assemblies are completely rebuildable and repackable. Should be the last set you will ever need.

I will add some more pictures of the prototypes installed on one of our cars.

Please let me know what you think!

I would buy one just to put in a display case. The most beautiful car part I think I've ever seen.

Maybe I missed it, or maybe you aren't announcing it yet, but any idea how much they will cost? I would assume with any race specific part, there won't be a warranty, right?

Nice job. The two piece spindle and flange seems like a good idea. I can't wait to see how it holds up to 315 and AX abuse.

Very nice!

OMFG. Thank you. Thank you so much. I am serious.

No, I haven't presented a cost as yet. I just received the volume quote from my machine shop last night while I was at the drag strip, and to my relief his cost was pretty much inline with my expectations. I've been working this afternoon on the complete Bill of Materials (BoM) so that I could completely understand my total cost for each assembly, and then I can set the price accordingly. I should have a price posted sometime tomorrow, and it should be in the ballpark of the MJM Racing re-manufactured parts from the 2010 time-frame, or in the $650ish each range, plus or minus a bit. I do get significant reductions in my machining cost at the 50 and 100 pc batch levels that can help bring the price down. (If you are really interested in purchasing a set, please let us know so we can get a head count for the first patch of parts.)

In regards to the warranty question, you are correct, no implied or explicit warranty due to the racing application. Of course, out of the desire to happy customers and good customer relations, we will deal with any issues that may arise in a professional manner and to the mutual satisfaction of both parties. Quite honestly, these things are way over designed. We considered smaller bearing sets, similar to the ones used in the older GM full size vans or pickup trucks, just to keep the cost down and the replacement parts readily available. These would likely have worked just fine, but we didn't want to any short cuts and want a part you could install and never worry about again, regardless of your use profile. We think we have hit that mark with our hub assembly. Our calculations were showing infinite life with very high G-loading (think soft compound 315s) and continuous high speeds. I'm going to send the bearing and loadings to Stan and let him run the calculations as a second opinion. Keep them greased and clean, and they should last the life of your car.

We have several thousand commuting miles on the first set. Took them drag racing last night at 13.03 at 109mph. First auto-X is this Sunday and we will let everyone know how they are holding up.

Your response made me laugh out loud and made my day. Thanks a bunch! (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/rotf.gif)

Count me in on a set! Thanks!

What type of recurring maintenance will they need and an estimate of how often for a street car running 315's?

Jim, if you are just running the car one street, then I would clean and repack them during your brake rotor and pad service, which depends greatly on your driving style. Otherwise, every 3 or four years, or ~30,000 miles or so. As long as the hub assembly is not leaking any grease and they are still tight, like with the OEM units, then everything should be OK.

If you auto-cross, then I'd look at them at least every two years. If you road-race, then they should be inspected every year.

Like most anything mechanical, the more detailed and frequent your service intervals, the longer the device will last.

Here are some photo's of the prototypes installed on the test vehicle.

(IMG:https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/1053241_378053165639917_733063239_o.jpg)
(IMG:https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/1048466_378053098973257_774954781_o.jpg)
(IMG:https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/1049055_378053125639921_1907088666_o.jpg)

Here's the old OEM part installed as a comparison.
(IMG:https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/1052286_378053108973256_1149998094_o.jpg)

A couple additional items that no one has brought up.

• This hub assembly is compatible with the one piece billet Track Brackets. Other brackets should work as long as their center clearance hole is of similar size as the knuckle.

• Right now, we do not have a source for the ABS sensor cap. We have searched high and low with no luck. We know they are being produced as all of the new replacement hubs come equipped with one. If anyone has any leads or contacts for a sensor cap source, please let us know. So for now, your will have to remove your old sensor cap and reuse it on the new hub. They clean up very well.
• For the ABS sensor cap, you will need the later plastic version and not the earlier metal sensor/dust cap. The earlier caps have tone rings with their teeth on the end face, while the later version's tone ring has radial teeth. The caps are not interchangeable, but surprisingly the ABS controllers seem to work with either version.

Pricing: The numbers are in and it looks like the list price needs to be $650 each, $1300 for the set. These will be complete assemblies, less the sensor cap, as shown in the earlier photos. We really want to order a batch of 50 hubs to get the better price break with the machine shop. So I'm trying find $20k to purchase all of the materials. As soon as I have that figured out, we will start taking orders.

Does your hub change wheel offset at all? Studying the various photographs, it looks as if wheels may be pushed out some? I ask because I'm running 18x11's with up to a 315 tire and my clearances to the fender are pretty tight as is.

For CMC guys, pushing the wheels out some would be great.

I'm interested.
Are the wheels pushed out at all? I would think that would be ok with floating calipers(Stock or C5/6) but not fixed calipers(Stoptech)?
Thanks,
Tony Cook

The wheel mounting flange, where the rotor hat sits and then the wheel, is in the same location as the factory hub/bearing assembly, when measured from the knuckle mounting face to the outer face of the wheel mounting flange. We run 17x11s with 315s and we didn't want to mess up our current solution for making those fit in the front. We briefly considered makeing changes to eliminate the need for an 1/8th or 1/4" spacer, it's not possible within just the hub & bearing assembly, you'd have to modify the upright as well.

Here's a comparison picture of the mounting surfaces and offset:
(IMG:https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/1008346_375876005857633_1174373569_o.jpg)

If you think you see a difference, it's likely an illusion with a shinny new vs. crummy looking old part. Also, our housing diameter between the wheel flange and housing mounting flange is almost a half inch larger than the stock part to accommodate the larger tapered bearings. It is a direct replacement and your wheel/tire offset will be identical to how it was with your old bearings.

Also, just did a trial fit on a '91 C4 Corvette and they will bolt right up. I'll load some pictures later today. We may offer a version without the taped holes, but we need to see if we can get an Allen head cap screw to fit next to our larger housing diameter, it doesn't look like the factory C4 bolts will. If there is not enough room for the head to fit, then the C4 owners will need to run the bolts in from the back side and work out a different retention for the ABS wire bracket that uses the ends of the top two bolts.

Very nice part.

Whats weight of one fully assembled?

I'm assuming the two piece spindle and flange are never intended to be separated (via a press) in case of service of failure?

Thanks Chevy053. They turned out better than expected.

The stock part with studs weighs 8.3 lbs and the HPE part with the longer ARP studs weighs in at 10.2 lbs, or just under a two pound increase.

Our intent with the shrink fit was to make the joint permanent. We were able to disassemble our first sample when the pin didn't sit flat against the flange doe to a radius issue. Just for grins, we tried to press it out with my 10 Ton press. We maxed the press out and nothing happened. Just as we were about to release the pressure, the was a loud pop and the pin moved a little bit. We kept pound on the press with a hammer and the shock load helped jar the parts and we eventually got them separated. A shrink fit with the same interference as a press fit has over 3 times the retention force of a press fit which is why we selected this method. We fixed the radius issue and reassembled this unit without issue, but because it has been pressed apart and re-shrunk, I'm not sure I want to put it on a car. We will have to conduct some further testing to see if pin replace is possible without losing system integrity, but for now I would say that the pin and mounting flange are not serviceable separately.

I'm interested. Please add me to the list.

Since the wheel mounting dimensions are the same, I'm very interested.
Thanks